Cheers to the Republik: elevated Indonesian cuisine with elevated prices

COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE — Just because Indonesian Independence Day has come and gone this month doesn’t mean the celebration of 70 years merdeka has to end. 

Everyday is about this country’s freedom at Bali’s arguably hottest restaurant this summer, Republik 1945, that is a self-proclaimed “statement of Indonesian Independence, character, and pride.” 

Situated on the perpetually jammed up Jl. Raya Kerobokan, Republik oozes hip-Jakartan trendiness and money with its clean high-ceiling industrial look, low-lighting, and its massive plant wall. 

Well is this relatively new spot in the Bali scene worth the hype? That’s what team Coconuts Bali set out to find one Monday night. 

As the bule hostess guided us to the large dining hall, we couldn’t help but be impressed with the chill ambience, open-air feel, and massive mural of a Balinese ceremony on one of the walls. Not to mention the laid-back live acoustic going on.

The wait staff zeroed in like hawks on us throughout the night and was always anticipating our next moves, ready to point the way to the bathroom, or bring another round of drinks.

Almost as soon as we sat down, our cheerful waitress brought us some rempeyek (deep-fried savory cracker with peanuts) and three accompanying dipping sauces (sambal merah, sambal ijo, and a kecap mix). This peanut cracker nailed it (not just because it was free), and actually topped the list for my Indonesian co-diner. 

We started off with some signature cocktails: the Kintamani (fruit martini with basil and red chili) and the Heavy Water (Belvedere Vodka with young coconut water, fresh lime, and apple juice). The Kintamani did it for me: a bit of sugar, spice, and freshness from the basil. BUT, it is Rp 150k for one drink. While that’s in line with cocktail prices at other hot spots in the area like a certain La Favela or Potato Head, who really loves paying that much for one beverage serving? And there’s also the food to hold out for. 
 

The menu offers a spread of Balinese and general Indonesian classics like sate lilit, rendang, and ayam bakar. For those of you who want to try as many things as possible and go big or go home, we recommend trying one of their tasting menus that are meant to be shared amongst two to three people. 

It was a difficult decision as each set had some tempting choices, but after some serious deliberating, we opted for the “Rinjani” menu at Rp 395k. And because it was that tough a choice, we did a swap deal on one item (which you can do for Rp 50k and approval from the chef). We traded the botok daun pakis (fern tips, bean sprouts, and grated coconut) for tum udang bumbu Bali (tiger prawn dumpling blended with tomato and herb). Nothing personal against daun, but those little savory banana-leaf-wrapped dumplings seemed to have been worth it. 

Next up was the sambal tapa (shredded tuna and young mango) adorably served up on some Chinese soup spoons. They were fresh, tart, and went down well, building up our appetites for the next course: tempe mangga (young mango, sweet soybean cake aka tempe, fresh asparagus and shredded chicken, served in a peanut and lime dressing). OMG, is that a salad?? We love Indonesian food, but sometimes we just need something fresh and not overly-greased and stewed—so this raw salad really hit the spot. 

Soto ayam hit our table next: a traditional turmeric chicken soup with egg, vegetables, and glass noodles. The soto was clean and simple though not necessarily any better than something we could get on the street for 15k—save for the fresh veggies, namely the tomato slices. Great touch. 
 

For your main main on the Rinjani menu, you have the choice of buntut bakar sambal kemangi (grilled ox-tail in honey, tomato, and chili chutney) OR krapu rica rica (pan seared coral trout served with a heavily spiced signature sambal). Both choices were appealing, but the promise of spice with the rica rica ultimately made the decision for us. The fish was delicate and smooth, while the chili gave it a nice little kick—though it seriously wasn’t that spicy. 

Dadar unti is the dessert item on the Rinjani menu: a traditional Indonesian crepe filled with palm sugar caramel and topped with coconut sorbet. Dessert was one of the best courses of the meal, with the crepe being light and not overly-sweet and the coconut sorbet holding its own—like I would have been perfectly happy with just a bowl of this cold, creamy sorbet. 
 

Overall, we’re thrilled to see the Indonesian fine dining scene making waves with head chef Ketut Udiana at the helm. Too often if we really want to treat ourselves and eat out in Bali, most of the fancy choices cater to tourists with Western menus. 

The problem with this elevated Indonesian dining experience at Republik is that it’s only worth it if the food being served is THAT much better than what you can get on the street for about a tenth of the cost. Some of the fresh fusion menu items are original and you probably couldn’t get them elsewhere (like our tempe mangga and sambal tapa), so those sort of items could be worth shouldering the serious prices for. 

That said, we definitely see Republik as a great place for visitors to Bali who want to try Indonesian food but are not so adventurous as to run the risk of getting the infamous Bali belly by eating street food. It’s the sort of place I would totally bring my parents when they’re visiting Bali for a nice night out. 

The “authentic Indonesian” menu does seem to be designed for a Western palate and stomach (i.e. mild levels of spice, fresh veggies, low grease levels, etc). Republik’s clearly quickly becoming a favorite among bule. We only spotted two local guests on Monday night out of 50 or so diners—though some reviewers on TripAdvisor claim to have seen lots of locals eating there on weeknights. 

But, we also already see this spot turning into a Facebook/Instagram/Path favorite for Jakartans on holiday. 

Tip: The place wasn’t packed and we easily got a seat (it was a Monday night after all), but we would recommend making reservations if you’re dining with a bigger party or going on the weekend. 

Coconuts Critic’s Table reviews are written based on unannounced visits by our writers and paid for by Coconuts Media. ​

FIND IT

Republik 1945
Jl. Raya Kerobokan 86A
081916741844 
reservation@republik1945.com
Open daily from 12pm-late.

Photos at the top: Instagram @republik45bali