As Bali expats, visitors, residents, and tourists, we know that our Island of the Gods is prone to stereotypes of opposing spectrums. At one end, there is the “tropical paradise Bali” found in glossy tourist brochures and travel websites. At the other end of the spectrum, there is the “ruined Bali” filled with drunken Aussies destroying the streets of Kuta, and the island’s never-ending war with drugs. Occasionally, we see a portrayal of both sides of Bali, mainly from travel bloggers who often write about what they hear versus the reality of their experience.
Whatever our view and encounters with Bali, most of us can agree that all facets of life transpires on this eclectic island. From joys and celebrations to tragedies and mourning, Bali has seen it all. The following documentaries really capture Bali’s all-encompassing juxtaposition, examining its natural beauty against the ongoing problems that it faces on a day-to-day basis.
1. Bali: The Dark Side of Paradise
In this investigative exposé, Australian “Clark Kent” correspondent Denham Hitchcock goes to Bali to find out more about the horrifying crimes that Australians in Bali have been subjected to. The documentary starts off with Hitchcock engaging in some cliff-jumping tomfoolery with two Australian female tourists, who appear to symbolize the naive, happy go-lucky stereotypes that view Bali as a paradise of crystal-clear waters and coconut trees.
But the “paradise” setting doesn’t last long. Pretty soon, the audience is subject to a montage of dark nightclubs, reenactments of robberies, victims’ accounts of rapes and scary statistics that “you won’t find in the guidebooks.” The documentary takes you through the horrifying ordeal of a mother, Chris Ovenden, whose son Mark was killed in a motorbike accident where the cause was never fully resolved. It also shares harrowing tales of drink spiking incidents from an Australian expat who previously ran security at good ol’ Skygarden. And then there’s also something from Paul Conibeer, the man who ended up in Kerobokan due to unpaid hotel bills.
This documentary may make those with an extremely naive understanding of Bali think twice about booking their next holiday here (which is why it’s been criticized by some for sensationalism and exaggeration). But for most of us who are probably aware of these dangers, “Bali: The Dark Side of Paradise” serves as a reminder to be cautious when we’re in situations where we may be potential targets.
2. Done Bali
This documentary is for those who like a little bit of old school history. Australian video-journalist Kerry Negara examines what drew tourists (ranging from prime ministers, presidents, pop stars, poets and artists) to visit Bali in the 1990s. The doco was originally released in 1992, so for those of us who remember what it was like to live in the 90s, you’re treated with flashbacks of the era’s fashion and hairstyles.
Australian historian and author Adrian Vickers appears throughout the doco, talking about Bali’s history and an ironic past. According to Vickers, Bali’s paradise myth was created in the 1930s when Balinese themselves were living in poverty. We also hear from Indonesian anthropologist I.G. Degung Santikarma on how the “paradise myth” has played into Balinese feeling like they have to play the “primitive” lifestyle to cater to tourists’ expectations. And then there are also interviews with various Bali expats or regulars who talk of Bali’s changing landscape that has resulted from the rise of mass tourism.
What’s most interesting about “Done Bali” is that the kinds of issues that the interviewees touch on, are the kinds of issues that Bali is still dealing with today. There was even reference made to new-age spiritual tourists, which will surprise those who hold the preconception that wheatgrass shot-drinking, yoga-loving Ubud hippies are a recent phenomenon.
3. Bitter Honey
Warning: Watching this documentary may cause extreme anger, especially if you are a passionate feminist.
Tackling a culturally controversial and taboo topic is always a difficult undertaking, especially if you are an outsider looking in. UCLA anthropologist Robert Lemelson, (whose previous work includes a documentary about the mass-killings during Suharto’s regime) chose to go ahead with the challenge nonetheless. The result is a raw, honest, and confrontational account of the lives of three polygamous families in Bali.
Indonesians watching this may find the experience a little painful and close to home, due to polygamy’s existence in this country coupled with the lack of open discussions around the issue. Don’t let that put you off though; it’s still definitely worth a watch. Maybe have a box of chocolate or comfort food of your choice handy to bring up your dopamine levels afterwards.
4. The Miracle of Bali (BBC)
Calling all culture and David Attenborough enthusiasts. This old-school series (as in 1969 old) is a comprehensive guide through the culture of Bali from its music, people, arts, and traditions. If you’re interested in the stories behind Balinese dances, are a Walter Spies fiend or want to see a historical footage of the Mount Agung 1963 eruption, then this might be a good documentary that you can curl up with during rainy season’s bad weather (and take a cup of tea with, just because it’s BBC.)
We have to confess that on our end, there were some sleepy moments during this documentary, though we think that it may be more to do with Attenborough’s calming voice than the subject matter. So soothing.
5. Bali: Heaven and Hell
Based on the book by surf publishing veteran Phil Jarratt, this short documentary talks about Bali’s beautiful and ugly. Unlike “Bali: the Dark Side of Paradise,” this doco starts with the tragedy and the aftermath of the Bali Bombing, examining its effects on Bali’s Australian expat community. From then on Jarratt talks about Bali’s multi-faceted history, from the artist community in Ubud and Kuta’s past as a surfer hangout in the 1970s.
Throughout the documentary, we see the contrast between the modern Bali and the old Bali, both through still images, establishing shots, and sequence shots. At one point there was an image of today’s Kuta, filled with bules in board shorts riding motorbikes through the busy streets, vs an image of the 1970s Kuta, where shirtless mulleted bules and locals hung out at a wooden shack that appeared to be in the middle of nowhere. Supposedly, that was as close as it got to “nightlife” in Kuta back then (though the footage was taken during the day, so who knows?).
Jarratt ends the documentary on a rather hopeful note though, and it echoes the sentiment of many of us who love Bali. “Maybe it’s not the heaven I found 40 years ago. But if this is what hell looks like, then bring on eternity.” We say yes.
6. Is Bali in Danger of Losing Its Soul?
While some of the documentaries touch on surfing, this one is centered on it, so for those who are interested in Bali’s status as being a spot for some of the world’s most epic waves, this is an interesting watch.
The doco starts off focusing on Bali’s famous homegrown surfer, “Bingin boy” Mega Semadhi. We then see brief glimpses of Bali in the old days, before the focus goes to various characters to present day Bali. We hear from Mike O’Leary, an environmentalist who founded the not-for-profit organization R.O.L.E., and we also hear a bit from Jerinx, the Superman is Dead rocker. Given SID’s vocal opposition to the Tanjung Benoa Reclamation, it’s unsurprising to hear his palpable anger at the lack of care presently given to Bali’s environment.
Addressing the irony of being a tattooed rocker who rides around in scooters as well as an environmentalist, Jerinx expresses his belief that according to him, being Balinese is about caring for the community, not looking and talking a certain way. A similar sentiment is expressed by a number of other notable Balinese figures, including activist Wayan Gendo Suardana, Bali Governor I Made Pangku Pastika and descendant of Ubud royal family, Arry Nova Dewi Putra.
Despite the title, this documentary also has an optimistic and hopeful ending. Although Bali may be prone to negative changes, there is a committed group of local activists passionate about maintaining the beauty that we love so much in our Island of the Gods.
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