Surf and board shaping legend Dylan Longbottom talks Bali, Canggu community, and love of the wave

Interview by Stephanie Moon

Awe Inspiring is an understatement when it comes to describing our next addition to the Faces of Bali interview series, the very grounded and down to earth, Billabong sponsored, pro free surfer, internationally coveted, board shaper and all around bad ass, Dylan Longbottom.

Not only has he surfed some of the gnarliest waves in the world (Teahupoo Code Red, you may have heard of that), he also knows what it takes to shape the boards to do just that.

When Dylan decided to plant some roots and open up shop, he chose none other than Canggu, Bali. Owner and shaper of one of the more coveted surfboard brands, Dylan Surfboards, his expertise and ‘know how’ are sought after worldwide.

We had the chance to sit down with Dylan recently and ask him a few questions. We found out what inspires him, why he chose Bali, why Canggu, as well as his take on the importance of community involvement. Don’t let the humble veneer raise any doubt, this is a true salty dog, bad ass!
 
When did you first come to Bali?
I came to Bali first in the 90’s as a pro surfer. I was on a photo shoot for Billabong. It was an immediate love affair. You have the best tubes in the world here. The lines are just so clean!

Each year I came back: the more and more I’d love it. I got hooked on Indo. On one trip we found this wave near this little island between Java and Sumatra. Apocalypse we named it. It’s a big, long, fast, hollow right hander that can be 15 feet high and 15 feet wide. It’s as big and perfect as you get, however nearly unrideable. It can be a true close-out and very shallow. Only a few people dare to ride it… Back then, it’s what kept me coming back to Indonesia.

Why Canggu?
I love Canggu.

I like the climate, the people, the surf, the local community. But it was really because of the waves first and foremost. There are over 10 different waves spread out between Berawa and Pererenan. You get hollow high performance waves at Echo, to long ‘wallies’ for beginners to intermediates at Old Man’s and Batu Bolong. Berawa is a fun break too. There is something for everyone and the quality is so good. I just never get bored here.

On top of all this, you have that ‘little bit of special’ of Bali that we all love; the mie goreng, the coconut when you get out of the water, the locals… Maderia, the Warung on Echo, their family is like my family and visa versa. I love Australia but over the years Bali has really started to feel like my home.

Which one is your favorite?
Echo beach! This place is magic: you have Echo and Pererenan, a perfect left and a perfect right and then in the middle Sand Bar, one of the funniest beach breaks in the world. A lot of beach breaks will shift and change but this one is always similar. It’s one of the most consistent places on earth. There are always waves. I surf here with my kids pretty much everyday.

 

Dylan Longbottom
Dylan Longbottom and his daughter. Bali.
When did you shape your first board?
1999. Amazingly enough it was the best board I ever rode! It was really one of the best ever. I rode it to death! I actually won the first Aussie Air Show with it. For years when I was shaping boards I would get back to that one. It was my main reference. I broke it into three, put it back together, broke it again and kind of ended up losing the parts with all my travels.
 
Dylan Longbottom dad
Dylan’s dad at work. Sometime in the 60s.
What turned you on to shaping?
My father was a shaper, actually one of the first, from the first generation of surfers in Australia. I was a bricklayer by trade. I always loved sculpting things with my hands. Shaping has always been my passion along with surfing. It was a natural progression. Like my father, I was a self taught shaper. I learned by my own mistakes. Later, however, I started working in some of the best factories and watched and worked with the best. Through word of mouth my boards spread. I’d make them for mates (who just happened to be surfing some of the raddest and baddest waves around) and the rest is history…

How did you set up shop here?
I started working with a local Indonesian owned board factory here in Bali. When my business took off, I was spending more and more time here to the point where I eventually decided to stay. The owner and I are best friends now.

What’s a perfect board for you ?
There are a couple. However, it’s one that becomes an extension of your body. It’s one that feels like it’s a part of you and guilds with you; It moves left to right without forcing it. That’s the perfect board! 

 

Dylan Longbottom
Dylan at work. Nowadays.
How many active boards do you have?
Thirty around the world. They’re scattered everywhere!

…7 in Bali, 7 in Oz, 4 in Hawaii, 5 in Tahiti…

What inspires you?
Surfing. The water. Good boards. Doing what you enjoy. And of course, first and foremost, my family.

What would you tell a first time surfer?
It’s only water! Don’t panic… Don’t panic! Also, get the right board! One that floats well and that’s stable so it’s easy to paddle.

Are you ever too old to learn to surf?
NEVER!

What does surfing bring you?
A sense of self confidence and well being.

When you’re in a tube, you’re on your own. You have to get out on your own.

 

Dylan Longbottom
Dylan charging an Indoneisan bomb. This year.
How do you feel local communities like Bali and beyond benefit from surf?
Surfing has brought so much to all the locals communities around the world. Especially on these tropical islands where everything is around the water.

You’re surfing with the locals. You’re living with the locals. You’re doing business with the locals. You become a part of this community. From Bali to Central America, to the Phil’s, to the West Coast of Africa and beyond, local businesses develop around surf.

Especially in Bali, where surfing is so important, surf has created so many jobs and opportunities. Every village you go to, in and around a surf spot, has instructors, local photographers, drivers, a surf school, etc. Plus you have everything around it like guesthouses, warungs and the toko’s (local Indonesian convenience stores).

How is it in the water?
Great. Again, it’s about community. You have to respect the local community. I never feel safer than when my daughter is out there with them. They look out for each other and for us.

You talk about community a lot. How important is it for you?
It’s important to give back. I believe in Karma. What you put in is what you get back.You want to do what you can to help out. We don’t surf for the money. It’s about the passion and that spreads.

At Dylan, we do our part to sponsor where we can, from competitions with the local Board Riders Club, to boards, to jobs to personal guidance to partnerships. Local kids come and hang out in our shop and get interested in what we were doing. Now a few of them are working with me and/or are sponsored by Dylan. They’ve really become part of my family. That cycle continues. Community involvement and surf go handed and handed. Whether it’s environmental or social, it’s part of the culture.

How do you see the future of Indonesian surfing?
Bright. Back in the days there were only a few Indonesian surfers. They were surfing old broken boards, whatever they could find. However, now, they are surfing and ripping it. The new generation is so, so good. I have seen very good Indonesian surfers and I can say, without hesitation, that they are some of the best in the world.

Best wave ever?
It was during Code Red day at Teahupoo.

It was a huge one! I thought I was too deep when I went out. I was so deep, below sea level. I wasn’t sure I’d make it out but with all my experience something just clicked. All my focus was there, on it. I held the line. The wave must have been about 30ft high and mean. It was intense! I remember coming out euphoric. I couldn’t believe I made it. I couldn’t believe I hadn’t wiped out. It was an incredible feeling: emotional, amazing!

To be inside that energy, this huge water tunnel that’s moving so fast, that’s the best feeling ever. It’s a crazy vortex. Time stands still. It’s water but the feeling is crazy. Your riding in it. Your inside it! Money can’t buy that sensation, the raw potency of nature.
 

What would you like to be reincarnated as?
A dolphin. They’re cool creatures. They surf. Jump. They have no predators nor do they hurt the ocean. Plus they’re really smart and loyal.

Desert Island Hit?
The Foo Fighters “Best of You”.

How would you describe yourself?
Happy.

How would your wife describe you?
Happy.

How would your friends describe you?
A good friend I hope. Loyal. And yeah, happy

 

Dylan Longbottom
Dylan Boardstore at Jl. Batu Bolong, Canggu
This interview is part of a series called “Faces of Bali” and was originally published on the Ocean Tribe blog page. You can find the Tribe team on Instagram @oceantriberetreat.
 


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