A lady in a big, shiny Klimt portrait looks out over DiVino’s eccentric dining room, which, like the portrait itself, is a collection of colorful compartments adorned with sumptuous trimmings. The other paintings on the walls are generic landscapes one might encounter in a Google search. With big, round tables draped in white polyester, the room looks like a tiny awards ceremony could begin at any moment.
The outdoor garden, had it not been raining, would have been fit for Alice’s next tea party with the Hatter and the March Hare.
Trying to be too many things or nothing in particular at all, DiVino’s appearance conceals an important truth – that it offers one of the best traditional Italian dining experiences in this city.
Compare: Casa Mia serves Italian fare with heart and care
A recent visit to the mansion where Volterra-native Chef Michele Magni ladles out his concept of sustenance started with a generous platter of Prosciutto e Melon, which was uncorrupted by ambition and handily achieved its simple yet noble purpose – to let the savory accentuate the sweet.
The next appetizer was Beef Carpaccio with parmesan cheese, truffle oil, and cherry tomatoes. Here was another happy convergence of flavors – the deep, savory beef and truffle with the fresh tartness of the tomatoes. Though the beef was not tender enough to be awarded a comparison to butter, the few extra chews were a welcome prolonging of the experience.
The unexpected yet undeniable triumph of the appetizer course, however, was the Melanzane alla Parmigiana – slabs of juicy eggplant baked with tomato sauce and parmesan, each one flavorful and substantive enough to topple the belief system of the most obstinate carnivore.
A transition between courses revealed more about the atmosphere DiVino seeks to create. The staff are professional and attentive, quick to brush away crumbs we didn’t even notice and insistent on serving ladies first.
To perfect this experience, the staff should consider asking patrons about their preferences regarding wine temperature; our red wine was served chilled.
The pizza out of DiVino’s wood fire oven surpassed all expectations. The Pizza al Salame Picante had the perfect level of spiciness for a pizza – palpable but not challenging. But the winner was the Pizza ai 4 Formaggi, which was topped with mozzarella, gorgonzola, parmesan, goat cheese, and rocket. In our party of five, at least one came away convinced that it is the best pizza in Yangon.
Chef Michel’s Spaghetti alle Vongole was a paean to the glory of simplicity. The pasta was perfectly al dente, and the white wine sauce was subtle enough to complement rather than overpower the briny flavor of the clams. The dish is a strong testament to how a small number of ingredients, with the right timing and placement, can unleash a perfect combination of feelings and flavors.
One dish that failed to make such a statement was the Risotto ai Funghi Porcini e 4 Formaggi. Though creamy and sufficiently mushroomy, it was perhaps at a disadvantage for being a dish whose every bite tastes identical. Diners looking for diversity might want to look elsewhere, but fans of starchy mush should not be dissuaded from enjoying it.
Our meal ended with Pannacotta with caramel sauce for dessert. It was smooth and rich yet still delicate – an intriguing reminder of how one’s idea of a good dessert changes as one gets older. The same can be said for every course of a DiVino dinner, which bucks the crutches so many faux-Italian restaurants in this city rely on, forgoing sugar and salt in favor of knowledge and care.
This, of course, comes at a cost that separates the privileged from the masses; nothing conveys this more than a menu full of prices in US dollars rather than Myanmar kyats. But the One Percent can rest assured that they are paying for quality Italian food.
DiVino is located at 61 University Avenue Road, Bahan Township, Yangon. It is open every day from 12pm to 2:30pm and 6pm to 10:30pm. Three-course set lunches are available every weekday for US$15.
