While wearing throwaway trinkets from flea markets or costume pieces from midpriced fast fashion chains on a daily basis, many women dream of the heirloom fine jewelry that they stand to inherit from their mothers or the ones they will receive from future husbands for passing on to daughters.
Beyond the beauty of precious metals and rare gems, they hold value for the occasion they commemorate, the relationship with the giver, the hard work required to make the purchase.
The concept of having enduring stories behind jewelry is fostered further in the Yuchengco Museum’s ArtWearAble jewelry exhibition, which launched last July 16. The first group show features some of the country’s prominent artists: Arturo Luz, Hans Brumann, Ramon Orlina, Eduardo Castrillo, Impy Pilapil, Ann Pamintuan, Leeroy New, and Michelline Syjuco.
It is in line with one of the institution’s main directions, specifically “Design as Art / Art as Design”. Not all of the pieces are made of the most expensive materials. Many come in silver, brass and crystal, often considered “bridge” in the realm of jewelry.
Their lasting value, however, lies in the creativity invested by the artists. Each item is filled with symbolism, context, and character. Ignoring fleeting ideas of what’s in vogue in the fashion world is fundamental to the works.
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Silver Cuff by Eduardo Castrillo | Photo by Harvey Tapan
Sculptor Eduardo Castrillo, who started out as a jeweler for high-end Escolta shop La Estrella del Norte in the 1960s, said “When jewelry is expressed in a serious manner… when it does not condone to any fashion trends… my sculptured art jewelry goes beyond fashion. They are miniatures of my monuments and vice-versa.”
His geometric necklaces, cuffs and rings in silver and white gold are clean, modern and classic.
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By Hans Brumann: 18 K yellow gold ring with tanzanite and diamond, 18 K yellow gold ring with diamond | Photo: Hans Brumann
Timelessness is also significant for jeweler Hans Brumann. “Jewelry is not a fashion fad. Pieces should be created to last a lifetime, if possible. These collaborations keep alive what I think is the most important element in the making of jewelry—the quest for new ideas,” he said.
The color, texture and lines of his designs are rich but restrained. His material choices are the most luxurious, often 18K yellow gold and semiprecious stones.
Apart from his own, Brumann’s company produced the designs of National Artist Arturo Luz and glass artist Impy Pilapil. The trademarks of Luz’s paintings – minimalist shapes in black, gold, and red – are translated to onyx, 18K yellow gold, and coral.
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National Artist for Visual Arts Arturo Luz, Brooch, 18 karat yellow gold, moonstone, and onyx | Photo: Hans Brumann
Touches of blue in the use of lapis lazuli were a welcome evolution. Luz’s works demonstrate the “seamless unity of functionality and embellishment” that the exhibit would like to convey: they are small compared with those from other artists and can be worn with many different styles of clothing. Barring paranoia over losing jewelry, one does not even have to wait for a special occasion to bust these out.
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Ocean Bubble Earrings 18 karat yellow gold and white gold by Impy Pilapil
The same can be said of Pilapil’s dainty brooches, earrings and necklace. They mirror her sculptures that render heavy glass, metal and stone into light and airy figures.
Ramon Orlina combines large handcut colored crystal with settings by Faico for his collection dominated by neckpieces and pendants. The hues are as varied and feminine as the women who inspired each item.
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Cleopatra Pendant, Handcut azure blue crystal and silver by Ramon Orlina
Furniture designer and sculptor Ann Pamintuan, who had a solo jewelry show at Yuchengco Museum in 2008, returns with new works derived from nature, dipping leaves and blooms in gold. “I like the idea of giving permanence to the beauty that roots, leaves, flowers, and even vegetables possess,” she said.
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Cuff, Mango leaf and gold by Ann Pamintuan | Photo: Neal Oshima
Production designer and installation artist Leeroy New perhaps has the least traditional conception of jewelry in the group, contributing pieces that are more garment than trinket but still highly ornamental.
His body armors and head gear in mundane polyurethane, resin and silicone compensate with form and color what they lack in sparkle.
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Shawl, Handpainted resin eyes by Leeroy New | Image courtesy of Yuchengco Museum
The jewelry of mixed media artist Michelline Syjuco is baroque, imposing and raw. The necklaces, cuffs, rings, and minaudieres are a product of her time, now that statement accessories are all the rage and countercultures have left the underground. By using cultivated rust, crushed tin cans, exploded bullet shells and cogs from watch movements, her aesthetic seems to bring to life horror and steampunk stories.
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Necklace, Handsculpted brass, gold, pearls, and mother of pearl, by Michelline Syjuco | Image courtesy of Yuchengco Museum
Design-wise, such big pieces raise the issue of how pragmatic wearing them would be – a common concern in modern fashion. When the size and weight hampers movement and causes strain on the body, then is an object considered well-crafted?
Besides the bijoux, the exhibit includes sculptures and paintings by each artist that provide context to the main feature vis-à-vis the rest of their work. There are many pieces as stunning as the jewelry such as figures from Ramon Orlina and Michelline Syjuco.
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ArtWearAble runs until Sept 30 at the Yuchengco Museum (http://www.yuchengcomuseum.org/), located at RCBC Plaza, corner Ayala and Sen. Gil J. Puyat Avenues, Makati. Museum hours are Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
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