COCONUTS HOT SPOT—We went to Luneta Hotel the other day, excited to see its dazzling transformation from a neglected building to something grand, shiny and tasteful. Our jaws dropped upon entering the building and seeing how the new owners, Beaumont Holdings, were able to restore the lobby. It looked grand with ornamental grills, pressed tin ceiling, black-and-white tiled floors and gold furniture.
After absorbing all that magnificence, we checked out the only food and beverage outlet that was open, Café Yano. Compared to the lobby, it was austere. Maybe it’s because the tables were not dressed, and that made the area feel bare. In fact it was not until we sat down that they set the table for us. It was cute when the waiter also brought a lit candle; it was mid-day. Soon enough, we realized it was not to create a romantic mood. It was a mildly scented candle to keep away unwanted pests.
According to earlier reports, Café Yano is meant to specialize in short order meals. Restorante Filomena, another F&B outlet set to open soon, will focus on fine dining. Since the hotel is still on a dry run, the menu was limited, and we were fine with that. We also put on our best behavior and knew not to expect a lot in terms of speed or service.
Most of the items to be offered at Café Yano are Filipino dishes given a European touch, like Nena’s morcon (beef tenderloin roulade in special sauce, PHP460) and el asado de cerdo vientre (slow roast pork belly in barbecue sauce with roasted vegetable, PHP510).
We opted for what turned out to be a very garlicky sopa de ajo con albondigas (PHP155) and were disappointed with the tough, sinewy meatballs. We followed that with menudo canelloni (PHP340), but alas it was served lukewarm and the flavor was overpoweringly sweet instead of savory. We would have tried the desserts, a choice of either the mango and banana brulée (PHP200) or the yema tarta de limon (PHP205), but we thought we’d just try them upon our return.
So we visited again after a week.
On our second visit, the wait staff were very glad to see us again (good that they recognize faces). This time we started with sopa de marisco (tomato broth with seafood, PHP180). On the first sip of the warm flavorful tomato broth, our hopes were raised that the kitchen can come up with a proper meal.
For our entrée, we decided to go with the restaurant recommendation, cerdo vastago guisada (braised pork shank in tomato sauce, PHP580). When they brought it to our table, we were stunned to see the size of the pork shank. Our glee dipped slightly upon realizing much of the mass was from the bone.
While the pork shank was served properly warm, it was ultimately the gravy that carried this dish. Once the sauce was used up, there was really nothing much else going for it, unless you’re a big fan of mashed potatoes and broccoli.
We thought we give dessert a go this time around, but the waiter informed us that both were unavailable. Instead we ended the meal with coffee (PHP150).
We understand that both the hotel and restaurant are still on soft opening. For us what that means is some dishes may be unavailable, but those that are should already be of a certain standard. Unless, of course, the restaurant offers diners a no-questions-asked option of sending back a dish if they not satisfied with it, or cheaper, soft-opening prices.
Based on our two visits to Café Yano, we’re not impressed. But we would still love to see this restaurant (and the hotel) succeed as it will encourage more investors to repurpose other heritage properties into productive use, hence the suggestions below.
Hopefully the hotel will step up and improve the menu of Café Yano before its grand opening. They should note the competition around the area: Casino Español offers a three-course set lunch for PHP540.
Our suggestion would be to keep the fine-dining dishes to Restorante Filomena.
Café Yano can focus on all-day breakfast meals, sandwiches and pastries to attract joggers and tourists from Luneta Park. Instead of going for a formal look, maybe they would consider doing a modern and contemporary feel to contrast with the elegant lobby and give this café its own character.
We are looking forward to the day when Luneta Hotel gets it act together and becomes a must-visit place not only for tourists, but for true blue Manileños, too.
Cafe Yano, G/F Luneta Hotel, Kalaw Avenue, Ermita, Manila; www.lunetahotel.com.ph, +63 2 7082318.
Photos by Anson Yu
Coconuts Manila paid for its own meal and dined anonymously at this establishment.
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