Coconut’s Critic’s Table reviews are written based on unannounced visits by our writers and paid for by Coconuts Bangkok.
COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE – Almost a year has gone by since I was soaking up the gorgeous Tuscan sun with pasta, pizza and smooth table wine. While I love Bangkok, I can’t help feeling nostalgic for those days when I was roaming around Italy, especially when it comes to the food. Fortuitously, I recently stumbled upon an antidote to my longing – L’Opera, a slice of Italy right under my nose.
On the inside L’Opera reminds me of a cozy little trattoria I found down a small alley in Verona. Stepping into this Bangkok establishment I was immediately charmed by the homey “primo” pasta, rustic “secondo” steak, and last but not least, a foamy cup of cappuccino.
The funny thing is I’ve known about L’Opera for years. At thirty years old, this restaurant is older than I am and a veritable dinosaur on the Bangkok food scene.
I must have seen the building a hundred times while passing through Sukhumvit Soi 39, but from the outside it’s so unremarkable that I never went in. If it wasn’t for a friend who had raved about the place, I would remain ignorant.
The meal to get at L’Opera is the set lunch, which rings in at about THB400 when all VAT and service charge is added up.
First up is the complimentary basket of assorted breads, freshly baked from the restaurant’s very own bakery—including one garnished with tomatos and olives. The bread is divine, but don’t fill up on it.
My favorite thing about eating at L’Opera is the salad bar. During my first visit I greedily piled on pickles, preserved vegetables, ham, carpacciocio and more to create my own Italianish appetizer. A lovely waitress kindly warned me that I would only have one shot to scoop up all the tasty goodies so I didn’t hold back. My trip to the bar also netted me a pile of juicy, smoky grilled vegetables (eggplant, zucchini, bell pepper), which I crowded onto my tiny plate.
I’ll admit, I have no shame.
Needless to say, I strongly recommend choosing a salad for your appetizer. But just in case you are not a veggie person, you can also opt for an alternative of “Soup of the Day.”
Then it’s time for the main course, which for a set lunch menu ise fairly comprehensive, even for non-foodies. Out of the three main options—1) pasta 2) pizza 3) main course dish—my friend and I chose two protein dishes – “Bistecca Di Manzo Alla Griglia” or thinly cut beef steak grilled and served with grilled vegetable, and “Piccatine Di Maiale Al Marsala”or pork loin escalope seared with marsala liquor wine and served with mashed potatoes.
The beef was cooked very well and sat on top of more grilled veggies, which I couldn’t seem to get enough of. My friend’s pork was very also flavorful thanks to a wine sauce that didn’t hold back. It seems the menu’s descriptions of its dishes are pretty indicative of the food you’ll be getting. When it says, “thinly cut,” it does mean that your steak will be thin. “Seared with liquor wine,” means you will really taste the wine.
Other menu items, which I can’t wait to try, include: fish dishes (such as salmon, tuna, and sea bass), vegetarian dishes (such as grilled vegetables, cheese, and eggplant), seafood, chicken, as well as other red-meat dishes to meet your craving. And we didn’t even venture onto the pasta and pizza pages, which also appeared intriguing.
Of course not restaurant is perfect. I was disappointed with what L’Opera claimed were “mashed potatoes.” To me they were just cooked potatoes, sans mashing.
Meh.
The meal comes to a delightful closing with a nice cup of coffee or tea of your choice. I opted for cappuccino, which was excellent.
Last words for all the dessert lovers reading: L’Opera has some of the most amazing desserts in the area. It’s not covered in the set lunch, but it never hurts to try a piece or two. Try the poached pear with chocolate mousse, and you’re guaranteed a glorious closing to this feast.
Also note: the lunch set menu is available ONLY on weekdays from 11:30a.m. to 2p.m.
L’Opera
53 Soi 39 Sukhumvit Rd. Wattana Bangkok
Tel: 02-258 5606
E-mail: info@lopera-bangkok.com
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