COCONUTS HOT SPOT – Fatbird on Soi Ari is a new restaurant serving up simple and wholesome fare in an environment reminiscent of a countryside cottage in England. Despite its relative lack of online presence, it seems that word of mouth has propelled Fatbird to the status of Ari’s new hot spot, as throngs of trendy patrons are filling the tables nightly.
If you’ve ever seen the English television show River Cottage featuring Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall then you may have a good idea of what sort of décor to expect. Unfinished pine, wrought iron, and cedar crafts make up the restaurant’s furnishings, while dried bushels of herbs and ornamental plants adorn the dining area. A number of architectural touches, like the greenhouse setup diners encounter upon entering the eatery, further accentuate the garden theme. Botany-influenced décor is relatively new to Bangkok, and Fatbird does it particularly well. The dining area is modestly sized, but mirrors acting as windows open it up a bit while greenery keeps the space cheerful and bright. Fatbird bucks the neo-industrial design trend that arose a few years ago – we’re glad to see that dim and dreary aura ditched in favor of bright and fresh décor.
There’s a small bar in the back of Fatbird with a few seats serving classic boozy concoctions as well as a few decent brews like Beer Laos Dark (THB110) and Leffe (THB220) in addition to the usual suspects like Heineken (THB120) and Singha (THB100). For a picnic-like experience take a gander at the wine list, comprised of mainly Italian varietals in the THB1,500 range.
Tables are situated close to each other, but in such a way that one doesn’t feel crammed. Service staff dressed in overalls can access every table without having to annoyingly squeeze between your seat and the one behind you.
The menu is succinct and focused on comfort food, with a slant towards foreign fare. Start with the yellow wings (THB120) for a fresh take on the standard buffalo wing. These little guys are fried up with citrus-y herbs and served with a tame, Isaan-style nam jim. The grilled potato smoked viena (THB240) is a hearty combo of starches and European meats fit for sharing.
Entrees cover all the main food groups. You have your fish in the form of a whole sea bass done in olive oil, lemon juice and fennel (THB380). There’s the Fatbird beef steak (THB420) to satisfy your carnivorous desires, as well as the pork steak (THB320) to round out the menu with some swine. An interesting dish also makes an appearance: home style stew pie (THB180), which we did not try, but it seems like something that was once prepared on the aforementioned River Cottage television series.
In addition to obligatory Thai staples, Fatbird also offers pasta. The spaghetti carbonara (THB220) certainly packs a little more heat than its Italian counterparts, but the fusilli bell pepper (THB220) is balanced and fresh.
Aside from the food, it really is worth checking out Fat Bird for the décor alone. Will this garden motif catch on? Who knows, but Fat Bird did it first, and the food is done well, so make sure to give it a shot instead of resorting to the tired old Ari joints a little further up the street.
FIND IT
Fat Bird
On Soi Ari, between Soi Ari 1 and 2
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pumpkinyates says
It’s a cool place to hang out, but I don’t know if I would ever draw parallels between Fat Bird and The River Cottage… Just sayinnnn’