COCONUTS HOT SPOT — Affordable Thai eats and popular chains recipes aside, the newest Thai joint to debut in Singapore serves up Isaan cuisine from the northeastern part of the country. Un-Yang-Kor-Dai, which means “anything goes” in Thai, may not be the easiest name to remember if you don’t speak the language, but it’s a pretty decent option to keep in mind the next time you’re in the Clarke Quay/Boat Quay area and craving some tom yum.
The eatery calls itself a “community restaurant” — what it means by that is: the original Thai branch brought together people of all backgrounds and industries with a shared love for food into the kitchen to create the menu and the environment. It’s sort of like an extracurricular activity for individuals to show their culinary passion, whether as a recipe creator or a server.
The outlet here doesn’t quite work the same way — yes, the group behind the Singapore outpost is being run by people from different walks of life, but it’s not quite got that sweetly optimistic, tree-hugger zing to it (yet?).
Situated along the busy South Bridge Road, Un-Yang-Kor-Dai’s entrance doesn’t quite stand out among its neighbors — it’s probably the kind of place you’ll have to specifically seek out to dine in. But inside, the 70-seater is a comfortable space with a retail area hawking quaint knick knacks made by the Khao Yai locals.
On the menu, we’re happy to see familiar favorites such as papaya salad ($10.50) — although the rendition here comes with chunks of salted egg, which help to tame down the spiciness of the dish (just a tad). But if you’re not keen on clearing out your sinuses, try the golden brown spicy minced pork sticks ($10.90) served with a mild sweet and sour dip.
To kick up the fiery levels, order a bowl of tom yum prawns ($18.90) with coconut milk, and dunk scoops of glutinous brown rice ($2) into the broth. Called khao niew dum, the chewy Isaan staple comes to your table in a katip — a handcrafted Thai basket made of bamboo and palm — and goes well with any of the soup or meat dishes here. Plus point: It’s also said to be healthier than regular white rice.
For your dose of protein, there’s the PenLaos signature grilled chicken ($12/half, $21/whole) — juicy cuts of bird so well marinated with a blend of white peppercorn and coriander that they don’t have to be doused in dip — or grilled pork neck ($12.90) that’s served with a sauce made of tamarind, cilantro, and chili powder.
If you’re the type that only goes for conventional options like pad Thai or green curry, perhaps it’s time to break out of your comfort zone with the deep fried whole sea bass ($28). A bigger plate meant for sharing, the slices of filleted fish are tender on the inside with an exterior so crisp, the crunch becomes rather addictive (we couldn’t help but reach back for more). It’s also served with a side of mango salad that’s more zesty than spicy, which makes for a good palate cleanser in between bites.
Just like most international restaurants that land in Singapore, Un-Yang-Kor-Dai makes an attempt to add local flavors on its menu as well, and the go-to is naturally salted egg-related. When you’re feeling generous, the $78 stir-fried lobster is drenched in the ubiquitous sauce, which may not be enough to justify the stiff price tag. Instead, we went for the stir-fried soft shell crab ($18.90) luxuriating in a non-spicy curry sauce that we mopped up with leftover glutinous brown rice.
Those with limited stomach space left for dessert can skip the standard mango sticky rice ($9; although it’s just as good here as any other Thai joint) and try the wobbly Thai milk tea pudding ($5.50), a sweet and creamy dessert that’ll double up as a taste buds soother, should yours be on fire.
FIND IT:
Un-Yang-Kor-Dai is at #01-02, 57 South Bridge Rd.
Tues-Sun 11am-3pm, 6pm-10pm.
MRT: Clarke Quay
