In a town overrun with retro cafes, it’s easy to forget true heritage restaurants. But before there were refurbished spots dishing out hipster brunch, there were these oldies, offering rib-sticking Chinese fare. Places where you could get regional specialties — Hokkien, Teochew or even northern Chinese — served up by no-nonsense wait staff. These three joints put out grub that truly stands the test of time.
Beng Hiang (top pic)
112-116 Amoy St., 6221-6695.
Cuisine: Hokkien
Open since: 1978 (36 years old)
Set on Amoy Street—just down the road from prime watering holes like Jigger & Pony — this eatery is an unconventional but smart place to fuel up before a late night bar hop. Their fried Hokkien noodles (from $8) are greasy in the best possible way (guaranteed to pad the stomach, guarding against any tipsiness). And you never leave hungry because everyone gets thick red bean soup free, for dessert. It’s also a favourite over Chinese New Year. The décor is festive season ready — from the bright red entrance to the pink melamine plates — and the shredded duck salad (from $18) is a great alternative to yu sheng. It’s just as colourful and tastes similar, but is much easier on the pocket.
Beng Thin Hoon Kee
#05-02 OCBC Ctr., 65 Chulia St., 6533-7708.
Cuisine: Hokkien
Open since: 1949 (65 years old)
First opened in a shophouse on Hokkien Street, Beng Thin moved to its current — inadvertently hipster —location, hidden on the roof of OCBC Centre carpark in 1979. It takes some manoeuvring to spiral your way up the multi-storey carpark. But trust us, your effort will be rewarded. On the roof, an ornate Chinese gateway leads into the restaurant, which serves a standout version of oyster omelette ($15). Gooey in parts and crisp in others, speckled with plump little oysters, the dish alone would be worth the trip. But they also do lovely set meals (from $78 for two), which offer a mix of their specialties.
Chui Huay Lim Teochew Cuisine
#01-02 Chui Huay Lim Club, 190 Keng Lee Rd., 6732-3637.
Cuisine: Teochew
Open Since: 1845 (169 years old)
Dating back to the Qing Dynasty, this joint is truly ancient. Singapore’s pigtail-sporting Teochew pioneers started the restaurant as part of a larger club just for their clan. But restored by the Jumbo Group in 2012, the eatery now welcomes non-members. Though the refurbished black and white space has lost some of its old timey charm, the food is still all about tradition. Down-home dishes like fried kway tiao with kalian ($12) and steamed ponfret with preserved mustard ($9.80 per 100g) provide a huge dose of nostalgia. And come the Lunar New Year, their CNY sets (from $218 for four) are a hit at multi-generational gatherings.
Hung Kang
28 North Canal Rd., 6533-5300.
Cuisine: Teochew
Open Since: 1962 (52 years old)
Started by a group of wealthy businessmen or towkays in 1962, this Teochew stalwart gets a steady stream of regulars who return time and again for specialties like deep fried liver roll ($16.80) and sliced goose (from $15). Their plating is strictly of the dump-and-serve variety and everything comes with curly parsley for garnish (a real blast from the past). But with food this good, it’s hard to care. They’ve also retained the tradition of serving tiny cups of bitter tea at the start and end of the meal. This aids digestion and if you’re planning to pig out here, it’s a must.
Jing Hua
21 Neil Rd., 6221-3060; 159 Rochor Rd., 6337-7601; #B1-04/05 Palais Renaissance, 390 Orchard Rd., 6733-8231.
Cuisine: Northern Chinese
Open Since: 1989 (25 years old)
Founded in 1989 on Neil Road, this old school eating house has just opened a third outlet at tai-tai hangout Palais Renaissance. There, as with the other branches, dig into xiao long bao ($5 for four pieces) as well as pan fried mixed seafood and pork dumplings ($9.50 for 10 pieces). Their dumplings aren’t quite as delicate as some fancier versions in town. But they really hit the spot when you’re craving something hearty and substantial. You get plenty of bang for your buck too — especially at the new Palais Renaissance location. With nearly everything on the menu under $10, it’s easily the best value meal in the chi-chi building.
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