It’s taken photographer Lester V. Ledesma two years and three roundtrips to Bhutan to complete this fascinating documentation of the last remaining Buddhist kingdom, where cars didn’t appear until the 1960s and television and the Internet didn’t become available until 1999.
“While the rest of the world chose to pursue material wealth, the Bhutanese went the opposite way, preserving age-old traditions and enriching their spiritual wealth. This is best exemplified by the Gross National Happiness index, the nation’s way of measuring the well-being of its citizens,” says Ledesma.
SEE: 5 best selfie spots in Manila according to Lester V. Ledesma
Here, we give you a sneak preview — and ask the photographer to give us the back story — of “Passage through Bhutan,” Ledesma’s month-long exhibition at the lobby of Landbank Plaza in Manila that features 28 color photographs.
COWHERDER IN JAKAR (above)
A ranch hand stops to rest after spending a day herding cattle in the fields outside Jakar. Because of its landlocked geography of mountains and rolling hills, livestock raising is a common occupation in Bhutan.
Behind the scene: “I was sauntering down a country road in Jakar when I chanced upon this cowherder. The light was gorgeous, and she just stood there waiting for me to take her picture. I love the fact that the only thing you can see on her face is her smile.”
BROTHERS IN FAITH
A novice monk poses for a portrait with masked Cham dancers at a monastery in Nimalung. Performed during the religious festivals, Bhutan’s mask dances portray events in the life of Padmasambhava, a Buddhist saint who is the kingdom’s most revered religious figure.
Behind the scene: “This was taken backstage during the Nimalung Tsechu (a Bhutanese festival). I noticed the performers lined up near the entrance while waiting for their cut to appear. The child monk was there to hold the curtains open when they exited. I simply asked these three to pose together for a quick portrait. People skills help a lot with people photography – especially if your subjects don’t speak our language!”
DANCE OF THE BLACK HAT
Set in a trance, a monk performs the “Black Hat Dance”, one of 12 tantric ritual dances performed during religious tsechus, or festivals, throughout Bhutan.
Behind the scene: “This event—the Nimalung Tsechu—was sensory overload. At one point I literally panicked because of the sensory overload—there were masked dancers at the courtyard, local folks all around, and a full-blown country fair outside. There was simply too many things to watch out for that I had to sit down and literally tell myself to remember my training.”
PRAYERS TO MEMORY
A novice monk memorizes Buddhist mantras at the Chimi Lhakhang, a revered Buddhist temple in Western Bhutan.
Behind the scene: “This novice monk was memorizing his Buddhist mantras for a test. He was so intent on his work that he barely noticed that I was taking his picture. At one point though he looked up at me—that was when I pressed the shutter. I like the mantras placed over his mouth—they imply that the ancient words are speaking even when he isn’t.”
SUNSET AT THIMPU
Late afternoon falls over the Tashichho Dzhong, a centuries-old castle-fortress in the Bhutanese capital of Thimphu. This massive structure boasts traditional Dzhongka architecture, and serves as the seat of government for the Kingdom of Bhutan.
Behind the scene: “I took this by the roadside in the Bhutanese capital, Thimphu. This is the Tashichho Dzhong, a castle-fortress that is the seat of the government and the monasty. Around it is a barely urbanized landscape of ricefields and mountains. That’s Bhutan for you—it’s traditional culture remains strong despite the arrival of modernity.”
Passage Through Bhutan: A Travel Photography Exhibit by Lester V. Ledesma runs from Apr 28-May 23 at Landbank Plaza Lobby (MH Del Pilar cor Dr Quintos Sts, Malate, Manila).
