I have Stockholm syndrome. My captors are garment closures: zippers, buttons, hook-and-loop tape (aka Velcro), buckles, and clasps. I spent six years doing technical writing and trade journalism on the trimmings beat. Sounds ridiculous, but these mundane objects, though seemingly impossible to reinvent, can spark patent wars and threats of import sanctions. But now that I am free of the zipper chains that bind me to monitoring intellectual property claims and export tariffs, I am free to fawn over the clever ways they are used in clothing. In short, I have come to fetishize fasteners, and fashion is currently rewarding me with apparel that prominently displays functional hardware.
Narciso Rodriguez is one of the designers who paved the way for this trend, right around the time I began my obsession. He was using exposed metal zippers on his shapely sheath dresses as early as 2005, back when such components were only commonly found on jackets. They are now a hallmark of his work, and a much-copied detail today. The entry of neoprene into casual wear can also be credited with the popularity of Delrin zippers. After all, what scuba look is complete without their chunky teeth? Both the stretchy material and surfer style are proving to have legs, enduring beyond Cynthia Rowley’s initial collaboration with Roxy in 2011 and other brands’ Spring 2012 collections. You can then expect the molded plastic closures to be just as in demand. Slide fasteners contribute to key looks even at luxury houses. For Dior Resort 2014, Raf Simons used two-way open-ended metal zippers along the center front of dresses worn as swimsuit coverups. The sliders can be pulled toward each other for variable exposure of the bikini underneath.
Playing with the idea of revealing a little or a lot, I made a zip-down skirt for my sister with a slit that could be raised with a slight tug. A month or so later, fast fashion giant Zara had introduced a similar polka-dot skirt. Although designers seem to be having fun only with zippers, other closures are getting some action too. A couple of seasons ago, Mango paired collar buttons with eyelet holes beneath the concealed placket of a silk blouse. The collar buttons, which are essentially small studs on a short post, would slip into the tiny circles and delicately hold the shirt together. If you take each side and pull left and right, it was surprisingly secure. But even a gentle lift of the top flap would immediately unravel you. While a huge risk in public, it’s actually perfect for women whose partners love ripping their clothes off. Hey, at least there’s no need to sew the buttons back on. Donatella Versace aptly chose to play with tracks of crystal hooks and eyes in her Autumn/Winter 2013 Haute Couture collection, subtly alluding to corsets and brassieres revealed by the undone clasps. Although the purpose here is to keep the hooks open, I’m sure refastening two or three for a little less leg couldn’t hurt.
Here are some pieces with unique closures that you can score right now:
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ZARA (PHP4,995)
The Spanish label continues to experiment with lots of zips. My top pick is a plaid minidress that successfully reinterprets the returning ‘90s grunge look. Its drop waist is marked by a two-way zipper. My fervent hope is that, like those dorky cargo pants with removable legs, this converts to a top with a hem magnificently edged with metal teeth. But alas, there is a possibility that the zip is the non-separating kind.
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MANGO (PHP1,450)
Center back keyholes are often secured with a button, but Mango’s recent blouses are furnished with a clip normally seen on front-close bras. Glammed up in gold, the sliding pins serve as a subtle decoration when you turn around.
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MANGO (PHP1,250)
If you want bigger bling on your nape, Mango also uses fold-over clasps on some tops.
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MANGO (PHP3,250)
Continuing with the theme of neckline interest, Mango also offers this bishop sleeve satin blouse with linked buttons on the collar and cuffs.
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VICTORIA’S SECRET
Rounding out our examples is the skimpiest of garments. Victoria’s Secret updates the classic triangle bikini by replacing the strings with metal chains and jewelry toggles. My favorite thing about this suit is that the hardware fixes the cups away from each other. This is essential to breaking the wide line across the body to create a slimming effect.
