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The two restaurants he is managing — Cicou in San Juan and IMPRESSIONS in Resorts World Manila — are already proof to his undeniable talent. So his recent induction into the very prestigious and super exclusive Maîtres Cuisiniers de France only reinforces what we already know: chef Cyrille Soenen is among the best chefs we have in the country.
Maîtres Cuisiniers de France is more than 60 years old. It is one of the highest honors the country can bestow its citizens. So for chef Cyrille to be honored and invited as a part of the prestigious group is no mystery. If anything, why only now? I’ve eaten in both of his restaurants a couple of times and not once did he disappoint.
I caught up with him recently and asked about his well-deserved accolade.
Chef, how does one get to be a part of the elite group of French Master Chefs?
Not everybody can be part of the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France. Before being considered to be a part of the organization, two chefs have to endorse your name. For me, one of the two chefs was chef Guy Legay, my mentor when I was an apprentice at the Ritz Hotel in Paris. The other was chef Jean Sabine. From there, a panel of 50 chefs will decide if you deserve to be in the group or not.
Although, I didn’t have to prepare anything for them, I did show them my menu, my credentials and what I did in the kitchen. Some of them came here, along with the president [of Maîtres Cuisiniers de France], chef Christian Têtedoie, and met my team. Of course that was a big deal because they saw first-hand what I was all about.
It’s such a prestigious recognition. How did you react when you found out about your inclusion?
For me, it’s very important especially because I am an ambassador of French cuisine here in the Philippines. I’m happy because now I’m back with the elite. I used to work with all of these people, from where I started in the Ritz Hotel in Paris where all the big chefs are now.
Of course when I left France, I knew I was moving away from these things. When you go away and you don’t see them anymore, you feel somehow disconnected. I’m happy that I’m now part of them again, wearing the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France collar.
You can be a chef for a hospital, a chef in a cafeteria, or a chef for an ambassador. But that’s not what I want. I’m here to do fine dining because that’s what I like.
Does this put any pressure on you? Where do you go after this?
I feel happy because the Philippines will now be included in the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France. It’s not just about me, it’s for everyone. It’s good for the staff, it’s good for Resorts World Manila, and good for the diners, because with this title I cannot settle for mediocrity anymore.
Of course, we’re not bad at all here at IMPRESSIONS. Actually, we are very good. All of the awards that we have received, we won them because we are doing something good.
Being part of the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France is a recognition. While it’s something that all chefs want to have, it’s not the top one. That will be the Meilleur Ouvrier de France, which is an individual contest that is very, very high level. It’s awarded by the French government and you become a national hero if you win. That would be my next goal. Of course, that’s if I can because it’s very difficult. I need to work very hard for it.
