COCONUTS HOT SPOT — A burger is never just a burger, especially when you’re having it at Carnivale in S Maison, Chef Mikel Zaguirre’s latest food venture specializing on greasy favorites like burgers, fries, and chicken nuggets.
Carnivale is just like your typical fastfood, but just a bit more expensive — don’t worry it’s worth it.
The interiors are meant to mimic a carousel, hence the restaurant’s unusual shape. The place has an effortlessly playful vibe. It doesn’t take itself too seriously, which makes it even more appealing to kids and kids-at-heart.
Aside from a family of four at a table near ours, we had the entire restaurant to ourselves when we went there a couple of weeks ago. The entire mall was practically empty.
S Maison was a stark contrast to SM Mall of Asia, which was right across. Parts of the posh, new mall were still unfinished, but there were already several restaurants and a couple of shops operating. It felt more like an art gallery than a typical consumer temple.
Carnivale was still on its soft opening, but one can’t really tell since their food and service were already on point.
Chef Mikel Zaguirre is the same guy behind other well-loved restaurants in the Metro..
Among his most famous creations are the sizzling sinigang of Locavore Kitchen in Kapitolyo and the spicy tuna hard taco at Taqueria 101 in Makati.
Like his other retaurants, Carnivale felt so “together.” The details made a simple meal a treat for the senses.
Aside from the food, my favorite thing about the restaurant was the plates, which were glass versions of the disposable containers used in fastfood chains. It set my expectations about the restaurant: it took fast food to the next level.
On the menu there were about eight burgers to choose from, and the waiter told us that the popular items were the gravlax and wangus burgers. He also recommended the lobster nachos.
Ordering took us a long time. Who knew that choosing a burger could be so hard? Perhaps because burgers are usually just very basic. Yeah, well not at Carnivale.
We went for the cronut, the chicken burger, chicken nuggets, garlic rice, and fries.
The cronut (PHP380) had a butter toasted brioche bun with baked cronut insert ans an Angus beef patty. Personally, I think what made it special was the sour cream and caramelized onion dressing, which gave the burger an interesting taste.
I had to think of the best possible strategy to get my cronut inside my mouth, so I decided to use my hands. The burger crumbled the moment I attempted to take my first bite. The dressing oozed out, and the juices spattered. It was a messy kind of delicious, maybe it was part of the fun.
The chicken burger experience was also similar. It was a crispy-fried chicken fillet doused in buffalo sauce with the right amount of kick. Tip: Even if you set aside the top bun and eat it separately, the burger will still taste just as awesome.
The nuggets (PHP360) were IPA battered and glazed with hot buffalo sauce, with a cheesy Roquefort dip. The garlic rice tasted was a surprising superstar. It was fancy enough to make us forget that we were in a place trying to copy fastfood favorites.
The salted egg fries (PHP230) were doubled-fried and seasoned with salted egg powder and other condiments. Don’t expect this to be anything like the ones you usually get in McDonald’s.
There were three of us who went, and our bill was about PHP1800, quite expensive for a ‘fast food’ meal perhaps, but just about right for Carnivale.
2/F S Maison, Conrad Manila, Seaside Boulevard corner Coral Way, Mall of Asia Complex, Pasay City.
