COCONUTS HOT SPOT — Dong Bei Dumpling was one of the restaurants we visited when we joined tour guide Ivan Man Dy’s “Great Binondo Food Wok.” And among the many legendary Chinese eateries and holes-in-the wall we were brought to, this one easily became one of my favorites.
By Chinese Filipino standards, this place is relatively new, having been around for only 10 years. Many restaurants in Binondo started in teh early 1920s. However, there is a simple and quiet charm to this place. Everything is done the traditional way, like in Northeastern China.
RELATED STORY:
14 oldest Chinese restaurants in Manila (from 1866 onwards)
THE LOOK
Dong Bei’s side street location makes it a little harder to find while driving, but on foot it is easy to spot. It is on the ground floor of a white apartment building that looks similar to those in Chinese gangster movies. It seats about 20 people and is alfresco. The best thing about it: an open kitchen lets customers watch how food is prepared from scratch, and makes one appreciate the labor and love that goes into seemingly simple dishes.
THE GRUB
We had the famous dumplings (PHP150/16pcs) and they were all good. The chives (kuchay) provided wonderful flavor and spice that were amplified with the black vinegar dip.
The transluscent wrap had that clean, well- prepared taste. Don’t expect to be blown away by rich bursting flavors because this is a “healthy” dish. It is steamed and Dong Bei, as a matter of culinary principle, uses very little meat.
We also had the fried pancake (PHP100/4 pcs; main photo above). I think of this dish as the dumpling’s slightly evil sibling. It is fried, leaving a brown, crusty and more flavorful wrap. It is also flat and cut into triangles like a pizza. Inside are chopped chives and pork.
Dong Bei is more of a snack place and an ideal pitstop in between all the shopping from nearby bargain centers and malls.
Aside from dumplings, they also serve noodles, chicken and vegetable dishes that are both delicious and healthy. It is not as big, popular or imposing as other more well-known restaurants in Ongpin Street, but that’s exactly what gives it its character. The food is simple, but very much authentic.
If you want to experience rural China, without getting a plane ticket, try to visit Dong Bei Dumplings.
NOTES
Cost: Approximately PHP150-PHP250/ head for food and drinks. Excellent value for money.
Cleanliness: Good. It is open-air, so expect some roadside dust.
Service: Great. Staff are warm and friendly. Don’t hesitate to ask questions about the place and food. They’ll also be glad to pose for pictures.
Sound level: Quiet. I didn’t notice music being played (Or maybe I was concentrating too much on the dumplings.)
Lighting: Natural light during the day. White fluorescent bulbs at night.
Coconuts Manila dined anonymously and paid for this meal. Dong Bei Dumpling, 642 Nueva (formerly Yunchengco) St, Binondo, Manila; www.facebook.com/dongbeidumplings, +63 2 2418912. Daily 9am-8pm. This story first appeared on Coconuts Manila.
