The first time I experienced a kaiseki dinner was in a restaurant called Goto in Singapore along Ann Siang Road. The place is owned by a former chef of the Japanese ambassador to Singapore. He serves traditional Japanese dishes in degustacion- or tapas-style, inspired by seasonal food. It was a 12-course dinner and the timing was perfect in serving the well-plated small dishes. The chef knew when we were done and the next dish would come. We had the feeling that there was a CCTV in the dining room.
Fast track to Manila, it was a pleasant surprise to discover one such restaurant in Metro Manila, to be specific at The Fort. They offer the following choices: a nine-course Mago Kaiseki (PHP3,500) and two choices of a seven-course dinner, the Sakura Yakishabu (PHP3,000) and the Fuji Sukiyaki (PHP2,500). All are quite pricey but, if you want good quality premium meat, you have to pay for it! This could be the reason the place has only one sitting during the evening. The patrons are mostly locals from the Gen X (age 32 to 50) and our lone table of seniors, the Baby Boomers! There were a few foreigners who were Asians (not Caucasians).
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Wagyu beef steak with garlic sauce (photos via Magosaburo Philippines Facebook Page)
The dishes were not traditional Japanese but I would like to call it fusion. Our appetite that evening decided not to take the set dinner but try the a la carte instead. We had three kinds of appetizers (seared tuna with vinegar jelly, mixed sashimi salad with tomato dressing, and deep-fried skewers), a soup (foie-gras Chawanmushi), the main dish which is their MAGO rib eye steak grilled in a heated lava stone with a delicious rice dish (beef garlic fried rice) and two kinds of dessert (rare cheese tart, and earl gray crème brulée). There was no regret over our decision because each dish offered a unique tasting experience.
The main focus which was the rib eye steak deserves an applause. In my next visit, I would have again the mixed sashimi salad, the yummy foie-gras soup which has a light tofu underneath, and try the Wagyu steak (and all its marbling) with the fried rice and order any of their light desserts. My preference is the rare cheese tart. A delightfully surprising rare taste indeed!
OUR NOTES:
Cost: PHP3,3930 for two people
Ambiance: The place is elegant with its high ceiling, modern chandelier, and minimalist design.
Sound level: We had to talk loudly to be heard and understood by the person across and next to us.
Service: Excellent, as rendered by Nhel, the server assigned to our table. He took the orders and noted to have four separate bills. Food did not take that long to be served. Complaints: We couldn’t order cocktails on the first floor where we were dining; cocktails could be ordered and drank only by the second-floor bar. We also couldn’t order sake by the glass, we had to buy a bottle.
Drinks: They have a wide range of wines to select from, plus a vendo machine with tasting (PHP190) and regular (PHP500) portions.
Magosaburo, Fort Pointe 2 Bldg, 28th Street, The Fort, Taguig City; +63 2 856 1808. Daily 6pm-11pm.
