Foodies are heading to San Antonio Village for its growing number of hole-in-the-wall eateries—here’s a plan for the weekend
FRIDAY
BEST FOR DINNER: Patpat’s Kansi
The Philippines has several versions of bulalo, and kansi is the Ilonggo’s take: all meat, no vegetables, with a hint of calamansi in the stew. This place has no air conditioning and, like many establishments in San Antonio Village, is set up in a converted garage. Diners from Bacolod who have eaten here swear that it’s the real deal.
Must-order: Kansi bulalo (PHP145) and grilled pork belly (PHP80).
Hot tip: Parking is limited so either go early, take a tricycle, or walk over. 8809 Sampaloc St (near corner Kamagong St); +63 2 8906179. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm.
SATURDAY
BEST FOR BREAKFAST: Bon Banhmi
This place serves one dish and one dish alone: bahn mi, those sumptuous sandwiches sold on the streets of Indochina. Here, the Vietnamese lady that runs the place makes the baguettes herself, baking three batches in a day starting at six in the morning. There are different types of banh mi, including a vegetarian version.
Must-order: Traditional banh mi stuffed with pork lean ham, salted-shredded meat, pig’s head paste, and boiled meat topped with carrots, cucumber and parsely (PHP79/medium and PHP99/large).
Hot tip: Get there early so you can have dibs on the bread fresh out of the oven (and on the table for two). 8390 Mayapis St (near corner Aranga St); +63 2 8087979. Daily 7am-6pm.
BEST FOR LUNCH: Wabi Sabi Noodle House and Vegetarian Grocery
The great thing about Wabi Sabi is that you can eat a lot without gaining weight because everything’s vegetarian—at least that’s what we tell ourselves. It’s located all the way inside hipster magnet The Collective, beside La Pomme crafts shop. Wabi Sabi’s serving portions are big enough, and you can be sure that each of their bowls of ramen is healthy. While slurping, you may want to look through their vegetarian grocery, which is actually just a couple of shelves of shiitake mushrooms and bottles of vegetarian mushroom oyster sauce.
Must-order: Shoyu ramen (PHP120)
Hot tip: Check out Etsy seller Apol Lejano’s cute dolls next door. The Collective, 7274 Malugay St; +63 2 8615772. Mon-Thu 12pm-9pm, Fri & Sat 12pm-11pm.
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BEST FOR MERIENDA: Sophie’s Mom
Possibly the cutest store front in the whole of San Antonio Village, Sophie’s Mom has the “sugar and spice and everything nice” concept down pat, we can almost see a little girl named Sophie wearing a frilly pink pinafore taking our orders. Sophie’s Mom takes her sweet cupcakes seriously and can help you explore your inner cupcake diva, too: DIY cupcake kits are available, from cupcake liners to recipes. There are other baked goodies, such as mochi truffles, cakes, Spanish bread, sour dough, whole wheat rolls, and eclairs.
Must-order: Red velvet cupcake (PHP50) and Spanish bread (with a filling that tastes like pastillas de leche; PHP12).
Hot tip: It’s located right across Mayor Binay’s house. 8760 Santol St; +63 2 8564849. Daily from 8am to 9pm.
BEST FOR DINNER: Suzu Kin
It’s set up like a typical Japanese restaurant, with the menu (in English) handwritten on folders tacked to the wall. Suzukin has been around since 1981, and it has looked like this from the start. Fortunately, inflation hasn’t caught up with it yet, so be ready for some budget-friendly delicious Japanese fare. Once in a while, while dining at Suzu Kin, you’ll see an old guy in a white sando and loose-belted slacks. Rumor has it that he’s the Japanese owner of the place; so you can be sure that what you’re eating is authentic Japanese food.
Must-order: Chirashi sushi (PHP170) and Sukiyaki (PHP195).
Hot tip: It gets busy and crowded at lunch and dinner. Better come early. Parking is on the street. 9753 Kamagong corner Sampaloc Sts; +63 2 5600822. Mon-Sat 11am-2pm, 5pm- 9pm.
BEST FOR A NIGHTCAP: Saguijo Café and Bar
Of course, your weekend wouldn’t be complete without some beer and live bands, right? Accounts of Saguijo vary depending on the age of the one speaking. People belonging to generation X were at Saguijo when it quietly opened with great unsigned bands playing; when the I Love You Store was still around, charming music lovers with vintage-inspired everything. Millenials know Saguijo today to be the haven of indie music, the home of the avant garde Theo gallery, and the bar with the best-tasting gambas ever.
Must-order: Cheeseburger and gambas.
Hot tip: If you prefer just to eat, go there around 7pm so you’re done just as the bands start plunking on guitars. Call ahead to reserve a table as it can get packed. 7612 Guijo St; +63 2 8978629. Tue-Sat 6pm till late. Music starts around 10pm).
SUNDAY
BEST FOR LUNCH: Galli Village Café
San Antonio Village wakes up a little late on Sundays. Besides, after your Saguijo nightout, you’re entitled to commit Sunday morning to bed. So do it. When you’re finally ready to face the Lord’s day, swing by Galli Village Café. Next to their Filipino-European menu, what makes Galli Village Café different is that it’s small enough you can actually smell your food being cooked. Right away, you’ll know that what you’re waiting for is worth it. The smell of garlic frying and beef cooking is enough to whet appetites. To add to the charm, one wall is lined with coffee table books about everything, from cats to climate change. You can entertain yourself with a bit of worldly knowledge while waiting for your food to arrive.
Must-order: Beef salpicao (PHP210) and paella (PHP295/good for three).
Hot tip: The paella takes 45 minutes to cook, but you can order it in advance before hearing mass across the street at the National Shrine of the Sacred Heart. G/F YMCA Hotel, 7 Sacred Heart St; +63 932 9717250 or +63 916 4111248. Daily 7am-9pm.
BEST FOR DESSERT: Purple Oven
After lunch, scoot over to Purple Oven across Galli Village Café. Although popular for takeouts, Purple Oven has a couple of tables and some chairs for those who prefer an unhurried coffee date. The brewed coffee is just okay, but the bakery’s mouthwatering goodies make up for it.
Must-order: Honey glazed donut (PHP30). honeycomb crunch cake (PHP720) and lemon torte (PHP780).
Hot tip: Time your visit, especially on a Sunday, to get there while Mass is going on. The crowd triples after mass. Also, if you plan on buying something to go, bring your own shopping bag. G/F YMCA Hotel, 7 Sacred Heart St; +63 2 6314221 or +63 2 9101363-64. Daily 7am-7pm.
BEST FOR DINNER: Bagnet 8065
The nondescript facade may be a turn-off, but the kitchen serves some of the best double-fried crispy pork on this part of Luzon. But there’s more to Bagnet 8065 than this Ilokano specialty. Works of art dot the interior walls, as well as books and bric-a-bracs on shelves. Upstairs, there’s a small clothes shop which is run, incidentally, by rocker Kitchie Nadal, who apparently grew up in the neighborhood, and whose brother runs Bagnet 8065.
Must-order: Bagnet kare-kare (PHP195/good for two).
Hot tip: Park on one of the side streets fronting Bagnet 8065. Spaces get scarce at night. 8065 Estrella St; +63 2 5196511. Mon-Sat 11am to 12am, Sun 5pm-12am.
