What’s exciting about Chef Mikko Reyes’ menu at Hungry Hound are his fastfood references. “Like this here,” he points to the Spicy Crispy Chicken (PHP367), “I really love KFC’s zingers, so this is like my interpretation of them. If I can’t have them there, I can have them here.” The familiar spice is there but the siracha aioli bends it a smooth zap.
The 29-year-old chef, formerly of 2nd’s and formerly of ABD before that, sounds excited talking about the whole “gastropub” concept. “I researched about it, found out what it’s about, and tried to interpret it here.”
The Gastropub along with nextdoor neighbor Niner Ich Nana has been operational for about six months now but in many ways, Chef Mikko’s presence feels like an exciting rebirth. Some items from one may be found and cross-ordered in the other and this goes both ways. On a bi-monthly basis, they do a pairing. Craft beers and cocktails are of course ever present, but Chef Mikko makes sure food is at front and center.
His menu features the beautiful 1 Kilo Shortloin Steak (PHP3,568)—“USDA prime rib and dry with foie gras butter,” the chef says proudly, but really, at that point, we don’t know if that even matters anymore. We were stumped at the party in my tummy. What tender magic was that? It is served with chorizo fat wedges and what we feel was a super partner, the fine bean salad.
We like how dainty the Smoked Duck Ham Aglio Oili (PHP458) seems like, but it packs quite a load, in taste and in heft. The Brioche French toast (PHPtba) is quite the delight. The brioche french toast are two pieces of toast slathered with cardamom syrup, pomegranate cream, and bruleed applies lifted to a refreshing spritz thanks to pomegranate and apples. Delicious.
“At Niner, we have this foie gras nuggets,” Mikko begins excitedly, “that’s like McDonalds nuggets but with foie gras inside. We’ll serve it later.” It comes like a chicken nugget, sitting on whichever reductions those were—we failed to concentrate on those because as soon as we bit off the perfect breading, a delicate ooze of foie gras greeted us; warm, soft, and gooey so good, it’s hard to believe it was inspired by the super pedestrian chicken nugget.
We’re excited about what chef Mikko can and will do in his new playground.
Hungry Hound and Niner Ichi Nana, Ground floor, Globe Tower, 32nd St. cor. 7th ave, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig. Tel. No. +639178769999
