Two things we learned upon hearing about the Likhang Habi Textile Fair, happening on the weekend of Oct 25, at the Glorietta Activity Center.
First: The Philippines has quite an impressive textile tradition.
Second: It’s unfortunately overlooked.
The fair is a yearly event that aims to preserve and promote the Philippine Textile tradition. We hate to admit it, but we’re one of the many who need educating about this super rich tradition. We spoke with Rambie Lim of Ancestral Crafts, one of the many participants of the fair, who, thankfully brought us up to speed.
Can you tell us more about the country’s textile tradition?
The country has a lot of weaving communities that contribute to this tradition. In La Union, for instance, there’s two: Bangar produces blankets, beach towels, napkins, and couch/bed throws, while in Santiago Cove (Iocos Sur), they make Pinilian bedspreads and fabric. In Basilan, in Zamboanga, they make Yakan placemats, table runners, throw cushions and bags. Topskill in Baguio City promote and create products traditional woven and embellished by the Ga’dang tribe like vests, head scarves, and blouses.
How easy or difficult is it to identify where these patterns are from? How can anyone tell if this is a Basilan weave or if that’s from La Union?
Yes, each tribe has distinct weaves. Weaving patterns were developed for ritual use, clothing and home needs. Ritual patterns are more ornate, having aspects of the tribes belief, and have totem animals like the lizard and the buwaya, which are similar in weaving patterns from Mindanao and Northern Luzon. In the olden times material and colors where also factors for identification — the farther north you go, the use of color is more pronounced because these areas were home to head hunters and warring tribes. Their colors would identify which tribe they were from, much like how the Scottish are with their kilts, kulay pa lang alam mo na kalaban, hehe.
The fabrics from the South, are way more colorful than anything. Traditionally they used fibers that are readily available to them, like silk because of their trading with Chinese, Indians, and other Muslim sailors; and abaca as it’s their abundant source for fiber. The weaves from Mindanao like the Tausug and Yakan use, like, 10 colors in one piece which I guess represents wealth and power.
We’re pretty impressed with how Ancestral Crafts is able to update and use these tribal weaves for products we can actually use in the city!
We’re working to restore Philippine crafts to relevance, to go beyond being just souvenir items, because sadly that’s how local handicrafts are seen and developed. Ancestral Crafts was started to help existing weaving communities around the Philippines to revive, update and market their products. We’re actually a division of Rurungan sa Tubod Foundation, which was started in 1999 to create a hand loom wearing industry in Palawan. The main product is Tepina fabric, woven with pineapple and Philippine silk fibers.
Well, we love your shoes and bags.
One of the main reasons, most traditional textile get turned into shoes and bags are because of the materials currently used for weaving. Maybe it’s also just easier to sell a bag and a pair shoes rather than for clothing. But, you know, traditionally these fabrics were mainly used for skirts. I think in a way, hindi pa siya pumapatok as a skirt kasi wala pang nagde-design ng skirt made out of local weaves na pwedeng ma-uso. Also, bag and shoe designers also have a more open imagination when it comes to using traditional textile.
What do you think are the challenges that the textile industry faces?
The way I see it, we should make products that sell, and make products that encourage the younger generations to weave. Our work in AC, is really to open people’s minds to local hand-woven textiles and the possibilities to create beautiful products that are current and relevant. Also, in most weaving communities around the Philippines, the weaving skill has already skipped a generation. Master weavers are in their 70s – 80s while the younger weavers are in their 30s below. The skill difference is insane. The younger weavers only weave the simple designs, so when the lola weavers leave this earth kasama na yung weaving tradition kasi it’s an oral traditional which was passed on from generation to generation. Walang manual!
The Likhang Habi Textile Fair happens on Oct 25-27, 10am-11pm at the Glorietta Activity Center, Makati.
Photos from Ancestral Crafts’ Facebook page and Rambie Lim’s Instagram account
