Dewakan, a tucked away restaurant in the Glen Marie neighborhood of Shah Alam, made history last night after becoming the first Malaysian restaurant to make Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants annual listing.
Ranking 46th, owner and chef Darren Teoh was on hand at the Wynn in Macau, where the ceremony took place, to receive the honors. Dewakan also took top gong in the Best Restaurant in Malaysia category.
Pole position honors went to Odette in Singapore, followed by Gaggan in Thailand, and Japan’s Den restaurant.
Following his win, Teoh spoke to online portal Lifestyle Asia, and demurred that the win was not only one for him, but for the entire supply chain that he works with.
“It’s nice to be acknowledged for the work that’s being done by all in Malaysia, the farmers, the producers and other restaurants who are pushing it every day as well as our guests and the guys at the restaurant now and before,” he said.
If Dewakan’s far-flung location, and traffic-jammed drive, has intimidated you up until now, then you may be pleased to hear that they are soon planning to move to a more central location, near KLCC.
Last year, we had the pleasure of sitting for a meal at Dewakan, in one of their frequent collaborations with other leading restaurants in the region. Teaming up with Bali’s Locavore, we experienced a locally-sourced menu that ranged from perfectly cooked duck from an organic farm in Pahang, and kid goat brains, pureed, and piped along the ridge of a grilled five-sided bean.
It was equal parts delicious, terrifying, and thrilling. While we left pleased, as the days grew on, we kept thinking about each course – how thoughtful each dish was, and how it took us out of our culinary comfort zone.
If you can, go – good luck getting a reservation after this win.