COCONUTS HOT SPOT — Chef Tan Kim Chye or better known as Uncle John oversees the kitchen in Limapulo. In fact, most of the recipes for the food served here are closely guarded secrets handed down by his mother.
Like any fastidious Peranakan chef, Uncle John will tell you that all ingredients must be authentic and preferably prepared by hand, no kitchen machine should be used. Take his Nyonya Laksa, for example. The demanding process in its preparation has limited it to being served only on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
The thick aromatic broth of the laksa is enough to activate the salivary glands. That bright orange hue is from the past of chillies, shallots, galangal, turmeric, candlenuts, lemongrass and some other secret ingredients, simmered till fragrant in coconut milk.
At RM9.90 a bowl, it’s money well spent for this bowl of exceedingly hearty and tummy-warming noodles.
Uncle John’s Nyonya Laksa is one of the best in the city and it seems many agree with this and that’s why Limapulo’s Nyonya Laksa bagged the “Best Curry Laksa” award in the Star Food Awards in March this year.
Nyonya Laksa
Besides its ward-winning Nyonya Laksa, Limapulo does serve other popular Peranakan dishes in its simple menu.
Appetizers like Nyonya Pie Tee and Cucur Udang do well to get a meal started here. I particularly enjoy the cucur as not only fried prawn fritters are served, there are also pieces of fried tempe, fishcake, tofu and boiled egg in the serving with chunks of cucumber, pineapples and jicama as well. It pretty much looks like a plate of pasembor to me!
Nyonya Pie Tee
Cucur Udang
For a full fledged Nyonya meal here, opt for dishes like Sambal Terung, Bendi Kukus, Gerang Assam Fish and Pineapple Prawns Curry.
Sambal Terung
Bendi Kukus
Assam Fish
Pineapple Prawn Curry
The flavours of the various spices and shrimp paste are strong and cut across the tastebuds in bold strokes blending aromas in a very tantalising manner.
My favourite is the spicy Gerang Assam Fish with its tangy twist. It’s a dish you’d love to douse a mountain of rice with as the gravy is just so addictive. Oh, you’d eat twice the amount of rice if you pitch in their Pajeri Mangga.
Pajeri Mangga
The spicy pickled mangoes are like little bundles of sour fiery dynamite which explode and engulf the palate.
Limapulo does serve some decent Nyonya fares with Uncle John presiding over the kitchen there and ensuring his family recipes are strictly complied with. With someone as passionate as this 73-year-old chef helming the kitchen, Limapulo is in good hands.
LIMAPULO
26 Jalan Doraisamy
50300 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-2698-3268
12.00pm-3.00pm, 6.00pm-10.00pm (Mon-Sat)
(beside Sheraton Imperial KL, along the Asian Heritage Row)
Chris Wan also blogs at Pure Glutton.
