Back in the good old days that were February, we brought you our first Yesteryear of Yum offering, focussing on old school Chinese cuisine in the Kong. But how could we forget the colonial classics? Answer: we didn’t!
Here we bring you the Coconuts-curated Top 5 retro Western restaurants in Hong Kong:
Gaddi’s
The grand old dame of classic colonial restaurants, Gaddi’s – named after the Peninsula’s then-general manager Leo Gaddi – first presented itself to Hong Kong diners in 1953. Featuring classically creative European cuisine, an impressive wine cellar, and a near-impossible-to-book Chef’s Table (Gaddi’s was the very first restaurant in the city to offer one), few have been as influential on the city’s overall dining scene.
Food aside, it’s the stunning colonial decor, the thoroughly “old Hong Kong” setting and the neoclassical architecture that really wow diners at Gaddi’s. We’re talking carpets from retro store Tai Ping, two enormous chandeliers from Paris and that ornate folding screen that dates back to the 17th century.
They say that you’re not a true Hongkonger unless you’ve dined at Gaddi’s, and we wholeheartedly agree.
Gaddi’s 1/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, 19-21 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, (+852) 2696-6763.
Jimmy’s Kitchen
Who doesn’t love a bit of Jimmy’s? It’s the first name that comes to mind when people think of Hong Kong’s colonial dining history. Originally opened in 1928 as a simple cafeteria catering to sailors and serviceman, Jimmy’s Kitchen slowly edged its way up-market until it became the obvious choice for refined British grub.
With two branches on either side of the harbour, Jimmy’s has over the years had to adapt to healthier whims. Whatever happened to the deep-fried ice cream? But what the restaurant slightly lacks in fat-drenched flavours, it more than makes up for in atmosphere, with its white-jacketed waiters and upscale-pub vibe.
If you’re still hankering for a heart-clogging taste of the old days, drop by on a Friday night, when their moreish Beef Wellington is on the menu.
Two locations: Basement, 1-3 Wyndham Street, Central, (+852) 2526-5293. G/F Kowloon Center, 29 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, (+852) 2376-0327.
La Taverna
Located directly across the street from the TST branch of Jimmy’s Kitchen, La Taverna stakes the questionable claim of being Hong Kong’s “oldest traditional Italian restaurant”. That might be hard to prove, but they have time on their side.
Taverna was opened in 1969 by the Macchetti brothers, two food importers who’d noticed a dearth of decent Italian eateries. Today, the restaurant’s slightly cheesy air has changed little, with aged paintings scattered across the walls and wicker wine bottles hanging from the ceiling.
The dishes are as traditionally Italian as ever, including such trattoria staples as Carbonara, Ossobucco, and retro favourite Sfogliatina alla Sophia Loren (puff pastry with orange cream).
Subsequent years have seen numerous “traditional Italian restaurants” open up shop, but few have the steadfast resilience of La Taverna.
La Taverna , 36-38 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, (+852) 2376-1945.
Amigo
Known as Café D’Amigo when it first opened in 1967, this longstanding Happy Valley restaurant now simply goes by the Spanish word for “friend”.
Dining at Amigo is the kind of luxuriously formal experience that’s so rare these days. Decked out like a Spanish hacienda and filled with shabby-chic antiques, this grand European dining room puts guests in another era from the second they enter, thanks to the tuxedoed-clad doormen and striking staircase.
The decor has seen better days, but that almost adds to Amigo’s charm. And despite its name, the cuisine is the kind of sauce-heavy French fare that’s becoming increasingly hard to find in our health-obsessed metropolis.
Steak with Foie Gras and Truffle, Lobster Sauté, and, of course, such decadent old-fashioned desserts as Crepes Suzette and Soufflé – yes please!
Amigo, 79A Wong Nai Chung Road, Happy Valley, (+852) 2577-2202.
Hugo’s
The saga of Hugo’s is an interesting one, and this might be the only restaurant on our list that’s cheating a bit. It first opened in 1969 at Kowloon’s Hyatt Regency, with a then-popular castle-theme that featured faux-candle chandeliers and entire suits of armour. But when the hotel closed its doors in 2005, so too did the restaurant.
Thankfully, the Hyatt reopened in 2009, reincarnating not just its age-old restaurant, but everything from the original silver trolleys to the weighty cutlery.
The menu is a throwback to those great ‘70s days of a don’t-give-a-damn French cuisine, including such dishes as Steak au Poivre, Lobster Bisque (flamed table-side), and their delightfully indulgent Salt-Crust Baked Bresse Chicken with Black Truffle.
Hugo’s, Lobby Level, Hyatt Regency Tsim Sha Tsui, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, (+852) 3721-7733
Got a tip? Send it to us at hongkong@coconuts.co.
