Shoved out of their home on Harbour City’s fourth floor after six years, the DiVino Group has found a new abode for Spasso on the east side of Tsim Sha Tsui – and we think they’re better for it.
The Italian eatery’s new space in the Empire Centre is more cosy, better lit and the waterfront view is even more spectacular. Because it is a smaller venue to fill, the menu no longer has to accomodate a more mass clientele so the offerings are more focused, traditional and chef Michele Senigaglia can indulge in his Venetian signatures and specialities.
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“We’re not in a mall anymore but the ground floor of a building so the dynamic will be different,” says Giacomo Pani, managing director. “Previously we had a big terrace but in a way we were more secluded because it was on the fourth floor. With this place we have greater visibility plus a stunning view. Menu wise, we will have more daily specials and it will be more personal.”
On a casual Monday night visit, the classy but casual decor was already drawing plenty of lcoals and tourists. The bar is nicely partitioned but not completely separated from the dining area so the hum of the Happy Hour lends a nice background buzz without being annoying.
The first treat was the bread basket. A combination of grissini sticks, slices of soft ciabatta and sourdough are accompanied with fresh olive tapanade, eggplant dip and some good balsamic aged until syrupy with extra virgin olive oil.
There’s nothing revolutionary on the menu, mostly classic Italian choices. The biggest surprise here is a Spasso’s Burger, no doubt for those American tourists who can’t find a McDonalds in the area.
But Chef Senigaglia’s real cleverness is evident from the starters. The Tuna Tartare (HK$148) is dressed with avocado, fried onions and spiked with some ginger to make the tuna sing. It’s Italian by way of Asian/Japanese influences.
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Tuna Tartare
Another evidence of attention and care is the ordinary Garden Salad (HK$98) The slices of Grana Padano cheese on top aren’t paper thin and there’s a good variety of lettuce on the plate more than just the usual romaine, arugula and chicory.
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Osso Buco Alla Milanese
The Pappardelle Al Cinghiale (HK$228) features inviting sheets of satiny handmade noodles draped around a ragout of Tuscan wild boar meat soaked in red wine before cooking. More Italian comfort food arrives by way of the Osso Buco Alla Milanese (HK$238), a signature for chef Senigaglia. The meat falls off the bone and the saffron risotto is perfect.
In addition to a nice variety of post-dinner cheeses available, there are a couple of interesting Spasso desserts to finish. The Organic Yoghurt Bavaroise (HK$88) is a healthier option to mascarpone or ricotta cheese-based heavier desserts, even with the passion fruit coulis. More sinful is the Cremino (HK$88), with dark chocolate and crème fraiche accompanied with biscotti biscuits.
Go now while you can still get a table.
FIND IT
Spasso
G5-8, Empire Centre
68 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East.
Tel: 2730 8027
