Review: Delight in fine French fare with a twist at HUSO

Dior Egg. Champagne. Soft Boiled Egg. Photo: Coconuts Media
Dior Egg. Champagne. Soft Boiled Egg. Photo: Coconuts Media

While we at Coconuts delight in the finer things in life like caviar and champagne, I must admit that I didn’t give it too much thought when I received an invitation to HUSO.

Taking its name from one of the most widely celebrated breeds of caviar-producing sturgeon, HUSO is a French restaurant that recently opened in Central.

“Probably another of those high-end restaurants with lux ingredients,” I thought (not that I’m complaining).

Little did I know that my friend, who went with me to the tasting, and I were in for a pleasant surprise.

Nestled in the first storey of The Pottinger, we were greeted by a timeless and effortlessly elegant French design upon entering the restaurant.

HUSO is nestled in The Pottinger in Central. Photo: Coconuts Media

We were seated further inside, which has great views of the busy Central district.

HUSO offers views of the busy Central district. Photo: Coconuts Media

What particularly caught my eye was the artwork by local artist Yannes Choi, custom-made for the restaurant. Featuring a playful and sensual take on the stars of the restaurant — caviar and champagne, Choi’s artwork celebrates the human form and adds to the dining experience. 

Artwork by Yannes Choi. Photo: Coconuts Media
Artwork by Yannes Choi. Photo: Coconuts Media
Artwork by Yannes Choi. Photo: Coconuts Media

We started our tasting with three appetizers, which beautifully showcased the two stars.

Dior Egg. Champagne. Soft Boiled Egg. Photo: Coconuts Media

My favorite was the Dior Egg. Champagne. Soft Boiled Egg (HK$258). Known to be a favorite of the late French fashion designer Christian Dior, the dish featured a soft boiled white egg encased in a bar of champagne jelly and topped with a generous serving of caviar. Not only was it a beauty to behold, the savory flavor of the caviar went well with the refreshing champagne jelly and the runny soft boiled egg. 

Oyster. Champagne. Caviar. Photo: Coconuts Media

Another appetizer was the Oyster. Champagne. Caviar (HK$198), which featured a full oyster from the coastal waters of Japan, drizzled in a cold champagne and chicken broth, and topped with caviar from France. Here, the champagne and caviar accentuated the freshness of the oyster.

Bottarga. Pickled Daikon. Caviar. Photo: Coconuts Media

The final appetizer we tasted was the Bottarga. Pickled Daikon. Caviar (HK$198). The dish featured a slice of mullet roe bottarga from Taiwan, placed over pickled Japanese daikon and topped with caviar. While the bottarga had a nice and subtle umami flavor, I found it a pity that it was mostly masked by the pickled daikon and caviar.

Champagne. Photo: Coconuts Media

To complement the meal, we had a dry, medium-bodied champagne (HK$188 per glass) composed of 45 percent Pinot Noir, 30 percent Chardonnay and 25 percent Pinot Meunier. I like that it was not too strong on the taste buds and had hints of apple, citrus and peach. 

For the mains, we had the Duck Leg Confit (HK$288) and the Picanha (HK$368)

Duck Leg Confit. Photo: Coconuts Media

The confit was beautifully seared with crispy skin and light but flavorful fats, as well as silky soft meat.

Picanha. Photo: Coconuts Media

Meanwhile, the picanha, which featured a slow roasted USDA prime rump cap, was juicy and tender. 

Soft Serve Ice Cream. Photo: Coconuts Media

For desserts, we both had the Soft Serve Ice Cream (HK$188 each), which was served with caviar on top and champagne jelly at the bottom of the cone. While it featured some similar ingredients as the appetizers, it offered a completely different culinary experience. As the caviar burst and mixed with the luscious ice cream, there was a delicate melding of the savory and sweet flavors that was surprising and delightful. 

Overall, HUSO offers a luxurious, yet cozy gastronomic experience that makes you see champagne and caviar in a new light. While it is not exactly affordable, for a fine dining restaurant located in the heart of Central, a meal here does not break the bank either, making it perfect for a date night or night out with your friends.  

Shop 2, 1/F, The Pottinger Hotel, 74 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong. Call +852 5801 1280 / 9036 8898 to make a booking.

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