COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE – There’s more to Verona than Romeo and Juliet. The newest restaurant in Harbour City is by chef Giancarlo Perbellini, a native of the province best known for Shakespeare’s tale about star-crossed lovers. Called La Locanda, the casual trattoria occupies a fourth-floor space adjacent to the former location of Spasso.
Born to a family of pastry chefs, Perbellini is the first to stray from baking into cooking. But unlike Verona’s most famous couple, defying his family didn’t end in tragedy. Instead, the chef reached great success and his romance with classic Italian flavours and contemporary presentation has taken his food all the way to Hong Kong.
“We all have memories of tastes and smells that take us back in time to when we were kids,” Perbellini expresses in his bio. “My intention is to make my customers feel the same emotions, even with modern techniques and approaches.”
He certainly comes close to that result. There’s a comfort factor La Locanda achieves that fancier Italian restaurants can’t capture. In Italy, nobody actually goes to upscale ristorantes. If they want high pedigree food, there are plenty of unassuming neighbourhood haunts with gastronomically discriminating kitchens. La Locanda’s relaxed setting resembles that vibe and, happily, so does the food. Even the slightly crusty and chewy table sourdough recalls the stale leftover bread offered in many diners back in Italia.
Insalata Novella
There’s also a simplicity to the menu. Chef Perbellini’s signatures – which are called ‘Favorites’ on the menu – are mostly basic dishes like Spaghetti al Pomodoro (seriously, spaghetti with tomatoes). The Insalata Novella (HK$128) dresses colourful lettuce leaves with pear slices, walnuts and a Gorgonzola dressing, as opposed to chunks of Gorgonzola. This approach dilutes the pungent blue cheese somewhat for those who might be scared by the strong taste, although fans may be disappointed the Gorgonzola isn’t strong enough.
Tartare di Manzo
I had a brain cramp and, by accident, ordered the Tartare di Manzo (HK$188) thinking it was carpaccio. Yes, both are raw beef dishes but I usually prefer the Italian thin beef slices rather than a diced pile. La Locanda’s dish is nevertheless enjoyable, with a generous portion of almost gamey beef, plus tomato seeds and crushed pistachios, served with slices of crispy toasts and some greens. A little extra acid like aged balsamic would have balanced the dish but rustic parochial Veronans probably prefer the unadulterated raw meat.
Ravioli di Pecorino
The Ravioli di Pecorino (HK$178) is another dish you would imagine is preferred by Italians. The Pecorino’s intense umami flavour is the star ingredient here with just a few slices of caramelizd apple to offset the savoury notes.
Risi e Bisi
The restaurant’s hostess, who is also from Verona, suggests a regional favourite is suckling pig served with snow peas risotto. The combination is unheard of here so the two items are separated but we decide to try them together. Risi e Bisi (HK$168), as the risotto with Parmesan cheese and fresh peas is known, has been transformed with the peas turned into a springy foam, while the overall dish is wonderfully light and sweet. Amazingly, it pairs very well with the suckling pig dish Maialino (HK$238). The entree has four meaty pieces with skin that crunches the way it’s supposed to. The pork is so tender it tastes like it might be cooked sous vide style. For the quantity and price, it’s one of the best suckling pigs in town. A glass of Corva Rose, from Sicily (HK$72) works well with both the risotto and the pork.
Maialino
Mascarpone e Caffe
For dessert, the Mascarpone e Caffe (HK$98) is essentially a lighter version of tiramisu with the emphasis on the soft mascarpone cream and espresso coffee, and one little piece of lady finger.
Considering its location in the tourist Tsim Sha Tsui district, La Locanda is a very reasonable new option for authentic, uncomplicated Italian cuisine. It’s a nice addition to the scene.
FIND IT!
La Locanda
Shop 4024, Ocean Centre,
Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel. +852 2785 9600
