Fenwick Pier has always been an interesting place. Owned and operated by the Servicemen’s Guides Association for over 50 years, it is the first point of docking, primarily for American ships, when they make port of calls at Hong Kong. Inside its Fleet Arcade, Naval servicemen on leave and visitors can pick up the latest American magazines, junk food and other US products for the same price they would pay back home.
Smart Hong Kong expats also come down for the same subsidised goods. However, since the Handover, fewer US ships come by, and the once-popular waterfront McDonald’s was eventually converted for higher-class dining. The space was previously called Quarterdeck, serving up casual burgers and pub grub. Now, a pair of Frenchmen have taken over, serving up a scenic, semi-open air bistro called Quayside Harbour Front Restaurant & Bar.
Asparagus and poached egg
More refined cuisine at the pier is available in the second-floor Italian Ristorante Giando, but what Quayside delivers is a more laid back setting with simple Continental fare. If any old-school Ernest Hemingway wannabes drop by, Quayside can also impress with a walk-in wine cellar, cigar room and signature cocktails.
In general, the menu is a safe mix of the familiar with a touch of French highlights. The Green Asparagus (HKD158) with a poached egg and Hollandaise sauce was well done but possessed minimal wow factor, and the Quayside Nicoise salad (HKD138) was a bit under dressed, more like a few pieces of tuna with just plain greens. However, the Goat Cheese starter (HKD138), comprising of chunks of St. Maure from Loire Valley, was strong and potent in flavour – obviously, a higher standard is set for the French specialities.
Main course choices from the grill include various cuts of steaks from the US, and New Zealand lamb chops. Disappointingly, the Mushroom Risotto (HKD158) was a bit bland, soggy and sad, but the Norwegian Salmon (HKD168) was nicely grilled with pretty charred marks and a moist centre. There’s also a small selection of kid-friendly dishes on the menu.
Profiteroles
Where Brittany-native chef Bruno Gautier excels most is the desserts. The presentation of his Nougat Glace’s (HKD78) was top notch, and the Profiteroles (HKD78) were rich and decadent with a gorgeous sauce that was as creamy as it was chocolatey.
For now, the real selling point of the Fenwick Pier venue remains its outdoor terrace. At night, and if the weather is more temperate, it’s undoubtedly a soothing place to unwind. Sadly, with the current reclamation work, no ship, let alone a naval carrier, will be docking here any time soon. The entire facility may actually become landlocked. So I say, enjoy the harbour front setting now, because soon enough, Fenwick Pier won’t be a pier, and Quayside won’t be a quay on any of its sides.
G/F, Fleet Arcade, Fenwick Pier, 1 Lung King Street, Wan Chai, 2661 6708, Open Daily 11:30am – 11.30pm.
