COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE — Indian cuisine has an image problem. Generally, it’s still considered an ethnic food, with rigid notions about what is authentic and traditional, and any deviation is an offense to the culture. Worse, some people just won’t pay above a certain price for it because the same thing in Delhi costs only a few rupees.
Chinese food had the same bias for years when people thought it was all cheap noodles and Kung Pao chicken. Chefs like Gaggan Anand– whose eponymous modern Indian restaurant in Bangkok was named Asia’s Best Restaurant by S. Pellegrino in 2015 – have changed the perception somewhat. But many diners still assume Indian to only be certain things: a curry canteen serving tikka masala, tandoori and Bollywood music in the background.
The entrance to Bindaas
Recently opened Bindaas is one of the few places attempting to refresh the cuisine. Located just below PMQ, the first thing you need to know is that Bindaas is not a proper restaurant. It’s a bar with a good kitchen. Expect to sit on high chairs or squished into a banquette, and to fight with the DJ’s music when you want to have a conversation.
The bar at Bindaas
The drinks menu is highlighted with Indo-inspired cocktails spiced with flavours like mango chili and lassi-style yoghurt. The Tamarind Mojito (HKD88) has the astringency of the pod-like fruit. Less of a hit was the Chutney Mojito (HKD88) where the fragrance of mango was completely missing.
The Tamarind Mojito (HKD88) and Chutney Mojito (HKD88)
As for the food, it’s all designed to be shared as snacks rather than a formal sit-down meal. Another sign this is won’t be your average Indian meal? There are beef dishes available.
Achari Paneer Shashlik (HKD128) consists of two satisfying skewers of large paneer cheese chunks grilled with sweet peppers, onions, and served on a bed of spinach puree.
Achari Paneer Shashlik (HKD128)
The Mutton Shami Kebab (HKD148) stays true to its Nawabi royal roots with three patties of meat minced to a luxuriously smooth texture. You don’t need teeth to enjoy these Mughal treats. Flavour-wise, it’s a little tame, like the chef is holding back on the spices and heat.
Mutton Shami Kebab (HKD148)
The Keema Pao (HKD108) is equally restrained in full-bodied flavours. The little pot of lamb Indian ragu (or Sloppy Joe, depending on your gastro point of reference), is helped along with onions and crushed coriander seeds. The dish is nice but doesn’t have the “wow” factor. Personally, I think it could use a good dose of black pepper. It’s served with toasted sweet buns (the pao in the name) for contrast in texture.
Keema Pao (HKD108)
As a new eatery, the service remains a bit spotty. So far, the food has come fast and furious. But just as quickly, it all stopped. Twenty-minutes later, we had to ask the server to check on the rest of the orders, especially after seeing a new table ask for the same thing and they got their plate already. We know the word Bindaas means ‘chill-out and care free’ but, c’mon.
Eventually, Mom’s Fish Curry (HKD168) arrived along with our accompanying butter naan bread (HKD28). The catch of this day is swordfish, which was flaky but not as firm as I expected. The tomato and cream gravy is thin and good for mopping up with the excellent fluffy naan. But again, a hint of chili would’ve added so much more to this supposedly South Indian curry.
Mom’s Fish Curry (HKD168) and butter naan (HKD28)
The signature fusion creation at Bindaas is its Naanza, that is a naan pizza. We try the Chili Chicken (HKD118) version which hits all the right notes for a snack to accompany drinks. It’s rich, savoury, and filling. What we couldn’t find any of was – again – the chili. The ‘Makhani’ sauce relies more on cooked onion’s mellowness than tomato’s acidic freshness. The mound of rocket leaves is a nice touch to make us feel a bit healthier. It’s not gourmet by any means, but it’s clever and enjoyable.
Chili Chicken Nanza (HKD118)
Do I think Bindaas purposely tones down the spiciness for the local clientele? Probably. A fresh take on Indian food shouldn’t mean watering down its sometimes intimidating big flavours. But is this still a cool little place to go for drinks and a bite? Absolutely.
Bindaas Bar & Kitchen, LG/F, 33 Aberdeen St, Central . Tel: (852) 2447 9998
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