Out of the “big three”, Cheung Chau is arguably the most underrated outlying island. Not as packed with Big Buddha-seeking tourists as Lantau, nor as heaving with hippies as Lamma, it still holds all the island escape charms, including fine golden sand beaches and some of the city’s best seafood restaurants.
How to Get There
Ferries leave every half hour from Central Pier 5 during the day, and range from HKD13.20 for the “ordinary” (read: slow) boat from Monday to Saturday, to HKD37.20 for the fast ferry on Sundays and public holidays. Unlike neighbouring islands (we’re looking at you, Lamma), Cheung Chau’s boats thankfully run all night, although much less often. There’s also a ferry service from Aberdeen, but it’s less frequent. Check the Transport Department website for a full schedule of both departure points.
What to Do
Kwun Yam Beach (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)
Cheung Chau’s beaches are small but fairly pristine and not as packed as fellow outlying islands. Tung Wan is the most popular, with a number of decent facilities, but it can get incredibly crowded on weekends. A better bet is Kwun Yam, a smaller shore that’s also more scenic with stunning views of neighbouring islets. Hire a kayak or windsurf, jump in the incredibly still waters and gaze out over that beautiful horizon.
Completely vehicle-free, save for the odd ambulance, Cheung Chau is made for cyclists. Rental spots are dotted all across the main street, and are dirt-cheap compared to other islands, starting at HKD10 an hour. If you lack balancing skills, adult-sized tricycles with passenger seats are also available, but we’d strongly recommend taking a two-wheeler to weave your way through Cheung Chau’s narrow alleys and up its steep hills.
Pak Tai Temple (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)
Cheung Chau might not have the most abundant cultural sights, but its unique few are worth seeking out. Start at the two temples paying respect to the god of the sea, Pak Tai and Tin Hau, both of which date back 200 years and feature interiors from the Qing Dynasty. Next, gaze upon the stunning eight-foot statue of Han dynasty general Kwan Kung at his pavilion, entirely made from a camphor tree. Finally, finish the day by seeking out Cheung Po Tsai cave, complete with winding passages and hidden alcoves, reportedly the hiding spot of a notorious 18th century pirate.
Ideal for casual hikers, Cheung Chau’s trails are scenic but not strenuous. The hour-long trek up to the North Lookout Pavilion reaches the highest point of the island, and is best conquered at sunset when the golden rays reflect off the island’s shimmering waters. More surreal is the Mini Great Wall trail, a small path that recreates Beijing’s famed site on a decidedly Hong Kong scale.
It only happens once a year, and you’d be a bit of a fool to stay during the weekend when the island is crammed full of ogling day-trippers – but the Cheung Chau Bun Festival is a true Hong Kong highlight. Featuring parades, lion dances, endless drums and, of course, people scrambling up huge towers made of buns, it’s a sight worth seeing. Expect hotels to be outrageously priced and restaurants filled to the brim though. Check out our photo essay of last year’s festival.
Where to Eat
New Baccarat Seafood
9A Pak She Praya Road, Cheung Chau, (+852) 2981-0606
One of the oldest of the island’s many seafood spots, and arguably the most popular, New Baccarat is owned by a fishing family who trawl the outer waters every morning, serving up the finest catch throughout the day. Try the salt-and-pepper squid and steamed fish.
Hing Kee Beach Bar
Kwun Yum Beach, Cheung Chau
Most people know it as a drinking hole populated by the island’s expats, but Hing Kee has a surprisingly impressive food menu too, with much of it harvested from the owner’s own garden. Order up a Super Bock beer or Swedish cider, treat yourself to one of their famed minced beef sandwiches, and take in the quaint beachside sights.
ChocoDuck Bistro
3 Kin San Lane, Cheung Chau, (+852) 5111-8084
Possibly Cheung Chau’s only upscale restaurant, ChocoDuck bills itself as a slow-cook European eatery, serving up homemade pastas, numerous tapas dishes, as well as enticing mains such as the 60-hour cooked beef. Prices are more akin to Hong Kong Island, but it wouldn’t be a proper staycation without at least one splurge. Reservations recommended.
Where to Stay
East Bay, Cheung Chau, (+852) 2981-0081
An old-school favourite, the Warwick is Cheung Chau’s only major hotel, boasting 64 rooms that hark back to those retro ‘80s days of earthy furnishings and musty smells. Despite rooms starting at a relatively steep HKD1,450 a night, it’s worth it for the throwback experience, especially when you douse the next day’s hangover with a selection of dim sum at the Bayview Restaurant.
B&B Cheung Chau
12-14 Tung Wan Road, Cheung Chau, (+852) 2986-9990
A cute, brightly coloured bed-and-breakfast near Tung Wan beach, B&B Cheung Chau has just over 20 affordable rooms and suites starting from as little as HKD650 a night. Accommodation is simple but appealingly decorated, with homey furnishings and very clean bathrooms. They also have their own affordable bar and restaurant, but dishes frequently sell out by the end of the day.
A number of bed-and-breakfast touts are parked along the main street, but we can’t vouch for these. Instead, a better bet is to sift through AirBnB’s listings, where you can rent private rooms in old-fashioned townhouses for as little as HKD500 a night.
