You’re nobody in this town if you don’t ride a bike. Or, at least it feels that way with all the bicycle cafes springing up and the huge groups of riders gathering around Silom in the evenings. And, in a city where the taxi drivers would rather drive around empty than take you anywhere but Mixx[1], and where the trains succumb regularly to overcrowding, you can see where the appeal in cycling lies.
In the past, I have been a passionate devotee of cycling. However, this habit slackened, thanks to a bit of bad luck. I fell off my bike twice in three months, once after an attempted mugging and a second time after running afoul of a speeding motorbike rider. Since then, I’ve been too scared to get back on two wheels inside of Bangkok’s city limits. But that doesn’t stop me from casting forlorn glances at my bike every now and then.
My friends decided enough was enough and pointed me in the direction of Nonlany Ung, who runs Café Velodome, next to Thammasat University. Much more than just a source for delicious brownies, Café Velodome plays an important role in encouraging Bangkok residents to get on their bikes. However, like me, many people find the idea absolutely petrifying.
The café has on site a whole selection of bicycles and helmets, which it lets people rent out during the day. It also organizes regular bike trips, which usually take place on the weekend (check the café’s Facebook page for details).
Nonlany works tirelessly to promote cycling and to improve the conditions for bikers in Bangkok. For that reason, the trips he organizes are offered free of charge. Whether you’re a keen cyclist looking for a sociable ride or a new rider hoping to gain confidence on the roads, Nonlany’s trips are well worth the effort.
Nonlany took me out alone for our trip, which turned out to be an extremely leisurely ride around Bangkok’s old town. We stuck almost entirely to small lanes and paths as we visited wats, saw where muay Thai fighters were warming up for the evening’s fights, rode across the river, stopped to feed the river’s catfish, stopped for lunch down a tiny dank alley, visited the royal barges and cycled through markets. I felt like I was on holiday. After two and a half years living in the city, I find myself often guilty of taking the quick route rather than the scenic route. I’ve stopped exploring. But, with a bicycle, it’s far more fun to wind down tiny pathways, discover small communities, and find a little peace away from the main roads.
The route totalled nearly 10 kilometers by the end of the day (which we somehow managed to make last several hours, what with all the stopping and starting). By anybody’s standards, 10k is very manageable, and you’re guaranteed no sore bottoms the next day. Even so, I left with a feeling of pride at having conquered Bangkok by bike (under Nonlany’s guidance) and a determination to get back on my own two wheels and cycle Bangkok.
Suitable for: Everyone! Though I highly doubt I burnt off more calories than I ate, it was a great chance to restore my confidence for my daily bike commute into Bangkok.
Photo: Coconuts Bangkok
