In Sweat in the City, Coconuts looks at the diverse options Bangkok proffers for staying fit.
I like to think of myself as a bit of a badass, purely because I hang around in the free weights room on a regular basis. But despite this, I have to say I was terrified on the morning of my first Muay Thai class in Thailand. I’ve dabbled before, in the UK and Dubai, but Muay Thai in Thailand at Grand Master Toddy’s Muay Thai Gym in Bearing was a prospect that scared me rigid.
Master Toddy is a trainer for some of the world’s best-known champions, including Gina Carano, the star of the Steven Soderbergh film Haywire (in which she kicks serious butt). The gym, housed in the sheltered courtyard of a Thai house tucked away down Bearing Soi 22, looks every inch the professional set-up, complete with a full-sized ring, a few punching bags and a notable absence of A/C (though there is a heavy duty, industrial-sized fan). When I arrived I was told to “warm up.” Unsure how a boxer warms up (and scared of wearing myself out before I even started), I decided to use the time to Tweet photos of the place and attempt to look relaxed.
Master Toddy, who speaks perfect English thanks to 16 years spent living in Manchester, teamed me up with Samingnum, a Mauy Thai champion at both Lumpini and Ratchadamnoen stadiums. I was both impressed to be able to train with such a great fighter and, at the same time, utterly petrified. While Samingnum doesn’t speak much English and I don’t speak much Thai, his teaching technique couldn’t have been clearer; if my guard was down, he’d gently bop me on the side of the head with a smile. He was fun and playful and I felt as though I really picked up some helpful techniques in just an hour long session, such as maintaining eye-contact with your sparring partner so they don’t know where the next punch or elbow is flying in from, lifting the knees up higher in the footwork and not punching with my pinky fingers up. No, really – he had to tell me to stop doing that twice.
The hour was spent sparring, learning five different kinds of punches, four elbows, some kicks and leg work. It was a perfect amount of info – I could remember everything and put it into practice without being overwhelmed.
Despite the terrible punch faux pas, Samingnum and Master Toddy were both very encouraging. They told me I was a natural, that I had fast punches and that I was strong; and I certainly do have some very bruised elbows to show for my efforts. I can’t say if their comments were a tactic to give me confidence and get me coming back (in which case it worked very well – I am a sucker for a compliment, whether it’s true or not), or if I really could be a good fighter. Either way, I’m going back to find out. I quite fancy myself as the next Gina Carano.
Difficulty Rating: 4/5 My first class wasn’t physically exhausting, but it was hot and there was a lot to remember. I’m quite sure it gets more physically demanding as you progress.
Master Toddy’s Muay Thai Gym
02 74 333 72
