COCONUTS HOT SPOT — The word “minimalism” rarely comes to mind when thinking about Bangkok. BTS stations glow with flashing neon advertisements. Fried food hawkers line the traffic-clogged streets of speeding fuchsia taxis. I mean, Patpong.
Quietly nestled down Soi Sathorn 8, Dexter Café & Bar offers much-needed respite from the stimulation overload. Opened in September, the trendy space has quickly become a popular spot thanks to its industrial, Scandinavian aesthetic and comfortable fare.
Designed by Bangkok-based Asana Space, Dexter’s interior features relaxed natural elements with mid-century modern touches like Eames plastic rocking chairs. It’s a place where you feel like posting up on a lazy Sunday. The unassuming eatery blends unfinished wood with white subway tiles, while motivational prints keep digital nomads inspired throughout the day. Dexter’s namesake vintage marquee is a popular selfie backdrop for students and hi-so brunch goers alike.
In addition to its inviting setting, Dexter has all-day dining that draws in happy customers. While the offerings are tasty and reasonably priced, the menu is all over the place. Most items seem to be vaguely café-inspired, but Dexter’s lineup could use a bit more focus. The tortilla chicken wrap (THB198) doesn’t exactly flow with beef stew (THB248), yet the flavors trump the theme clashing.
Morning visits are highly recommended with Dexter’s breakfast and brunch options. For something sweet, try the Nutella French toast stuffed with bacon, served with maple syrup (THB128). For those craving savory, Dexter’s traditional Danish Aeggekage is a must. The fluffy omelette topped with cucumber, tomato, spring onion, bacon, and crispy pork belly (THB348) is well seasoned and satisfying. Not exactly sure why the folks at Dexter serve the dish wrapped in foil; a quick Google search reveals that Danes do not in fact do the whole foil thing. Thankfully, the presentation does not make the dish any less delicious.
Breakfast and brunch are only served until 3pm, but lunch and dinner options can be ordered throughout the day. There is no shortage of options to suit a range of desires. Want Western? Dexter has strip pork spare ribs with french fries, coleslaw, and bbq sauce (358 THB). Maybe something with Southwestern flair? On the “Snacks” menu you’ll find a plate of nachos with salsa, cheese, jalapenos, and shredded chicken (THB158).
Curveballs aside, there are dishes on the menu that you’d expect to find at a café. The Dexter staff recommends the Jerusalem artichoke soup topped with crispy jerusalem artichoke and parsley oil (THB128). I favor the colossal smoked salmon lox with mixed salad, capers, roe, and herbal cream cheese served on a toasted bagel (THB318). The generously portioned dish is a great pick for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, and diners are lucky its available all day. For a homey dessert, check out the housemade chocolate lava cake (THB168) served with vanilla ice cream.
Dexter serves a number of pasta dishes, and even ran a promotion during November offering all you can eat pasta for THB368. The idea may sound more like an Olive Garden promo than one from a chic café, but the pastas are more elevated. A fan favorite is the Penne Carbonara with shrimp roe (THB198).
Like any good café, Dexter has caffeine staples as well as smoothies. The coffee is brewered from regionally sourced beans and is nicely done. In accordance with international hip café law, the iced drinks are served à la mason jar.
When the sun goes down – or anytime of the day (no judgement) – there’s a full bar stocked with cocktails, wine, and beer. Similar to the food menu, the cocktail list loosely hinges on a central theme. Most of the drinks (THB220) could be categorized as tropical, until you get to the wild-card Irish Coffee. The cocktail list does offer up some drinks perfectly suited for boozy brunching like the Bloody Mary or the vitamin C-filled Screwdriver. Dexter’s beer selection features both Thai brews and imports including an Erdinger Weissbier Dunkel (THB220). Stop by after work for Dexter’s happy hour. From 5pm to 7pm enjoy half-price cocktails, a nice change from the usual “buy-one-get-one” model found elsewhere.
An added bonus at Dexter is that the team seems to be actively trying to foster a sense of community. The attentive staff regularly snaps photos of its smiling guests to share on social media, and the restaurant is very accommodating for large groups thanks to the space’s versatility. The servers seems to genuinely care that you decided to stop by. Frequenting Dexter just feels good.
Whether you want to congregate with your brunch buddies or slave away on your laptop (made possible by the reliable WiFi and bounty of electrical outlets), give the well-designed Dexter a try.
Follow Natalie B. Compton on Twitter at @NatBCo.
FIND IT:
Soi Sathon 8
8am – 10pm, Monday – Thursday
9am – 11pm, Friday & Saturday; 9am – 8pm Sunday
