COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE – Growing up sucks. This isn’t just the anthem of a pre-pubescent teenager, but an attitude that often carries on well into adulthood, reinforced by extra helpings of responsibility and dull conversation. Adulthood, however, does come with some mighty fine perks: we can eat whatever we want, we can play around nice things without anyone screaming, “Be careful!” and we can also drink alcohol (which, let’s face it, is way better than lemonade). Many of us spend years (lifetimes?) split between childhood’s insouciance and adulthood’s material rewards, a fact exploited to astounding effect by Amontre Playroom & Brasserie.
Amontre is no new plaything for Bangkok’s restaurant scene. Open since 2008, the eatery occupies space in the plush Frasier Suites Urbana Sathorn. Recently, it underwent a hefty makeover, including a new coat of paint and the addition of a few shiny knickknacks. The whimsical but trendy vibe in Amontre might remind you of another popular eatery by the name of All Six to Twelve at the Fraser Suites on Lang Suan. Both restaurants are helmed by the same creative team of Kulsiri Chaiyanoppakul and Pompot Kanpetch, with chef Wanchai Chatchotianan taking care of the kitchens.
But this restaurant definitely has its own flavor. Amontre is cute and coy, with ceilings and walls covered in chalkboard-scribble quotes and cutlery in neat white cups like decorations at a tea party. It’s also more than twice the size of All Six to Twelve. The dining area sprawls throughout the ground floor, while upstairs sits the “playroom” – a sports bar complete with a popcorn machine and foosball table. The outdoor terrace lets dim, hanging bulbs set a more romantic mood.
A quick glance at the menu reveals where Amontre’s priorities lie. One side of the document covers food while an impressive three pages deal with cocktails and drinks. We’re talking over 30 international beers and a range of concoctions from the most imaginative depths. Typical of these creations is A Stroll in the Park (THB320), which consists of sparkling wine, red grapes, mint, vodka and lime in a martini glass. The mud shot (THB230) features a Mars bar dropped into straight a glass of vodka. Frozen drinks meant for sharing between parties of four (THB490 each) also look giddy but dangerous, particularly the Crazy Amontre with rum, gin, vodka, tequila, whiskey, triple sec, lime and syrup. Good lord.
My dining partner and I approached with caution, ordering up the Play Room (THB300) and Cherry Rock (THB250). There was nothing innocent about the first drink, a stiff but delicious blend of cognac, honey, lime and sparkling wine. A few of these could lead to a very bad play date indeed. The second drink mixed cherry brandy, lime and ginger ale and it wasn’t nearly so stiff, but equally tasty.
The food menu boasted many simple dishes that harkened back to childhood, like burgers and sandwiches, but done up with an edgier, mouth-watering flair. For example, take the Amontre burger (THB140) with sautéed onions, bacon and an egg on the patty or the tuna linguine pesto (THB220). For the really hungry kids, the Chef’s Specials include char-grilled lamb chops with sautéed spinach and potato puree (THB640) and gai yang prik gaeng kra ti or “grilled spicy chicken with cucumber pickles and salad” (THB140).
Many of Amontre’s dishes call for sharing, none more so than the fish and chips (THB180). This dish comes with wedge-cut French fries and fish, battered into individually consumable, finger-length pieces. I would recommend this over something like the roasted pumpkin soup (THB95). The dish has some winning points, like the pumpkin seeds and a piece of bread with melted cheese to accompany, but overall the soup lacked seasoning and flavor.
However, I was like a kid on Christmas when my spaghetti carbonara benedict (THB165) arrived. The dish didn’t disappoint; the poached egg on top and hollandaise sauce added a creamy, irresistible texture.
The prices at Amontre, like at All Six To Twelve, are extremely reasonable. In fact, the cocktails are more expensive than much of the food. While the portions aren’t huge, most of the items sit on the heavier and more filling side of the spectrum. The presentation is inventive and the restaurant’s setting is fanciful, without trending towards the uptight. It’s just the right place to come for food and drinks with a big group of friends.
Amontre succeeds in creating a playroom for grumbly adults to release their inner child. Just, please, don’t make a mess at the dinner table.
FIND IT:
Amontre Playroom & Brasserie
Urbana Sathorn, 55 Sathon Tai Road, Bangkok, Thailand
Tel. +662-359-9667-8
Open Monday to Friday 6am to 10pm, Saturday and Sunday 6am to 11pm
Photos: Barbara Woolsey
