To cheer up after watching the tear-jerking remake of romantic-tragedy Plae Kao, visit the Kwan-Riam Floating Market ‒ named for the story’s star-crossed lovers ‒ and stuff yourself full of comfort food. While there, take in the grandeur of the Khlong Saen Saab, which once served as the dividing line between the rival villages fictional Kwan and Riam called home. Yes it’s the same Khlong Saen Saab that contributes to Bangkok’s omnipresent stench, but the area where the market is situated in Min Buri district has yet to feel the full force of urbanization.
Don’t know the story of Plae Kao? Read our review.
The market is designed to evoke the feeling of a simple lifestyle from days of yore when water was a viable mode of transport and life revolved around rice farming. Wat Bangphenthai commissioned the building of the market sometime in the last two years, but the structures are made entirely of wood, much like they would have been in the 1930s.
In the folklore, hot-headed Kwan oozes passion for the demure villager Riam, but if your heart beats for delicious Thai grub then Kwan-Riam market will have you melting. As with any river market, kuay teow steals the show, and there are plenty of faux boats repurposed as restaurants serving the staple right alongside the river. The good ones are usually packed, so this is one instance you’ll want to follow the crowds.
Although it’s almost sacrilegious to forego this ubiquitous bowl of flavor, boat noodles and kuay teow do get old after awhile. So past the boats are plenty of other interesting options such as skewers of bacon nibs slathered in a mix of chili and “tomato sauce,” or whole pigs that have been “grobified,” meaning they’ve been deep fried into a crispy texture where the belly fat melts in your mouth.
Walking through the market you’ll be assaulted by smells from every direction, and it’s hard to know where to go first. The trick is to start at the riverfront and then work your way out from there. Repeat this on both sides of the river. The layout of the market can be deceiving to first-time visitors. There are food vendor halls on both sides of Khlong Saen Saab, but both sides host vendors serving up unique specialties, so make sure to save room for bounty from the other side. There’s seafood carted in from Chonburi; Halal fare; Skewers of pork, beef, chicken; and chewy crocodile on one side. Succulent bpet yang, fatty duck; home-ice cream and kanom tarn on the other. Choose wisely as real estate in your stomach is valuable.
After the eating, it’s customary to san jao (pay respect) to the Kwan-Riam statue situated on the riverfront. It can be difficult to get a quick wai in between all the giddy tourists taking selfies, but for the pious individuals who do pay their respect to the restless souls drowning in love, it’s said romantic fortunes will be granted.
This section of the river might be one of the few spots where toxicity levels are low enough for life to survive, so it’s neat to watch children scatter food into the river and create a frenzy of silver fishes competing for a few crumbs of bready chum. For THB20 you can feed the fish yourself, or you alternately feed ponies and alpacas by purchasing a THB100-bag of carrots.
With Plae Kao receiving significant media attention, the market may experience a surge in popularity; visit now while it’s still frequented by Minburi and Serithai natives. To reach this old-time destination, turn on to Ramkhamhaeng 187 and follow the signs for Wat Bangphenthai.
FIND IT:
Talad Nam Kwan Riam
Wat Bangphenthai
Between Soi Seri Thai 60 and Soi Ramkhamhaeng 187
