Photo: Cafe Velodome
SWEAT IN THE CITY — You’re nobody in this town if you don’t ride a bike. At least it feels that way with all the bicycle cafes springing up and the huge groups of riders that gather around Silom Road in the evenings. And, in a city where the taxi drivers would rather drive around empty than take you anywhere but Mixx and the trains are packed so full of people that you have to check for herpes after every journey, then you can see where the appeal lies in cycling.
In the past I was a cycling devotee, but due to a bit of bad luck, I fell off twice in three months after an attempted mugging and a speeding motorbike rider. Since then, I’ve been too scared to get back on two wheels along Bangkok’s hazardous roads, but that doesn’t stop me forlornly stroking my bike every now and then.
My friends decided enough was enough and pointed me in the direction of Nonlany Ung, who set up Café Velodome next to Thammasat University near the Grand Palace. More than just a bike café serving up a delicious chocolate brownie, Café Velodome plays an important in encouraging Bangkok residents to get on their bikes to help improve their health, lower the traffic problems and play a part in reducing pollution. However, like me, many people find the idea absolutely petrifying.
The café has on site a whole selection of bicycles and helmets which it lets people rent out or borrow to use during the day or, they organise regular led bike trips (usually on the weekend – check the café’s Facebook site for details).
Nonlany works tirelessly to promote cycling and to improve the conditions for bikers in the city. For that reason, these trips are free and, whether you’re a keen cyclist looking for a sociable easy ride or a new rider hoping to gain the confidence to take to the roads, it’s well worth taking part.
Nonlany took me out alone for our trip, which turned out to be an extremely leisurely ride around the old part of Bangkok. We stuck almost entirely to small lanes and paths as we visited wats, saw where muay Thai fighters were warming up for the evening’s fights, rode across the river, stopped to feed the catfish, shad a spot of lunch down a tiny dank alley, visited the royal barges and cycled through cramped markets. I felt like I was on holiday. After two and a half years living in the city, I’m often guilty of neglecting parts of it; I take the quick route not the scenic route. I’ve stopped exploring. But, with a bicycle, it’s far more fun to wind down tiny pathways, discover small communities, and find a little peace away from the main roads.
The ride was probably around 10 kilometers in the end (which we somehow managed to make last several hours, what with all the stopping and starting). By anybody’s standards, 10 kilometers is very manageable indeed and you’re guaranteed no sore bottoms the next day, though I have to admit I did take a little tumble and graze my knee when I tried to cycle over a stack of sandbags and lost my nerve halfway through. Even so, I left with a feeling of pride at having conquered Bangkok by bike (under the guidance of Nonlany) and a determination to get back on my bike and cycle Bangkok.
Suitable for: Everyone! Though I highly doubt I burnt off more calories than I ate, it was a great chance to gain my confidence back for my daily bike commute into Bangkok.
