Roll With It: The Lobster Lab gets the classic seafood sandwich right

COCONUTS HOT SPOT — When you want a super-decadent sandwich and you’ve had your fill of burgers, these lobster rolls really hit the spot.

Tucked into the market floor of hi-so hangout The Commons, in Thong Lor, is The Lobster Lab.

The gleaming chrome kitchen and lobster red stools invite you to hop up and sit for a while. The menu features all kinds of lobster delights, from lobster croquettes (THB250), to fried calamari (THB190), to lobster chowder (THB290) to lobster garlic sourdough (THB250) from the appetizer menu.

For main courses, we had to try a lobster roll, the item the shop is known for. I’d heard lots about the Mexican Lobster Roll with avocado, cilantro, and jalapeno and was looking forward to trying it. Sadly, they discontinued the sandwich. We chose the the Boston Roll’s Girlfriend sandwich (THB690) instead — which they call a “must try newbie” item — featuring their own tangy twist on a classic lobster roll.

The sandwich arrived on a buttery, hot dog roll-shaped brioche with the right level of toasting to showcase the softness of the sandwich fillings. Filled with lobster chunks the size of golf balls drenched in lemony mayo with spring onions, we really felt we got our money’s worth with this sandwich, which was also topped with a smoked sriracha sauce. The price also included a large salad and small side of homemade fries.

Next up was the lobster mac-and-cheese (THB590), which was a large portion and very filling. Made with cavatappi (hollow corkscrew) pasta, we thought we detected cream cheese, gruyere, and mozzarella finished in the cheese sauce. It was finished with generous bits of parsley. The mild dish was still surprisingly flavorful, probably due to the high quality of the cheeses used. It featured four or five large chunks of lobster.

We were already totally full when the main event, the chilli lobster (THB750 for half, THB1,390 for a whole) arrived. But we found a way to power through. Steaming hot and topped with a spicy, tangy sauce that seemed more like a barbeque than a chili sauce, we guessed that it contained tamarind, liquid smoke, and chili. The sauce was actually a bit too strong for the delicate flavor of the lobster, which was well cooked.

Were we to visit again, we might try the grilled or the beer-battered lobster, which come at the same prices as the chilli version.

We were pleased to see that the staff in the open-air kitchen is meticulous with their cleanliness. They wore gloves for everything and arranged the salads by moving each leaf into a bowl separately and arranging it with tiny tongs. We’d never seen anything quite like it.

FIND IT:

The Lobster Lab
The Commons (Ground Floor)
Thong Lor Soi 17
Open daily, 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
BTS Thong Lor

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