COCONUTS HOTSPOT — The suburbs sometimes get a bad rap: A wasteland devoid of culture but rich in chain-stores, where breeders go to spawn more boring, consumer clones. So what does it mean when a trendy new place appears in such a benighted land?
I’m talking about Pink Tender. No, it’s not what you might think. Not another unsavory establishment on one of the seedier sois of Sukhumvit. Pink Tender is a chic, new spot serving up seriously red meat in Bangkok’s Bang Na suburb. Located just behind Central Bang Na, Pink Tender is bringing some city swagger to the ‘burbs.
The name Pink Tender hints at the restaurant’s slant toward high-end steak. The great news is that even though the steak is import-quality, the prices remain reasonable. For THB850 you get a hefty portion of Australian Wagyu beef from Jack’s Creek, known for it’s sustainable efforts and all-in-house approach to cattle breeding. The wagyu is fatty, and indeed, tender. It comes done first in sous vide, then seared, creating a very noticeable disparity in textures. Rounding out the beef selection is a 250-gram Angus sirloin from the United States at THB750 and a 180 grams of Australian ribeye at THB550 – but the wagyu delivers most value.
Meat bleeds at the core of Pink Tender’s identity, but if it weren’t for the name you’d never know the operation is centered on this otherwise uber-macho staple. The trendy and chic, almost feminine design and mood stand out from the area’s corporate-dominated dining scene, with a menu that includes plenty of Western comfort food. Pastas range from THB180 to THB280 and include the ubiquitous tiger prawns in lobster oil, or a more creative approach to tiger prawn-based pasta in which the crustacean is done with riceberry paddy rice, an unusual purple grain. On the pedestrian side of the pasta spectrum are spaghetti pomodoro and a creamy carbonara with smoked bacon.
Not one to ignore the other white meat, Pink Tender does kurobuta pork in pineapple sauce (THB280) and an interesting grape sauce (THB320), while selections from the sea include renditions of salmon in creamy leek sauce and miso-ginger dressing at THB290.
Signature cocktails are themed renowned global cities, with an element of the city’s culture used in each drink. The Moscow Winter harkens Siberian freeze with a dose of vodka and blue curacao, while the Stockholm Syndrome oddly incorporates a slew of tropical fruits and rum. The beer selection encompasses all the hot craft brews in Thailand at the moment, so suburban enthusiasts finally have a go-to watering hole for specialty suds.
22 Bangna trad 23, between Central Bang Na and Big C
