COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE – The German word Brozteit translates roughly to “bread time.” It’s an expression meant to invoke the act of sitting down with good friends for a few beers and a whole whack of carbs.
That’s the concept behind the new restaurant Brotzeit, which offers traditional Bavarian cuisine in a contemporary setting. Originally based in Singapore, Brotzeit now boasts franchises in many locations across Asia, including Hong Kong and Hanoi. The latest offshoot, here in Bangkok, can be found on the chic and modish Soi Thong Lor.
As far as address goes, Brotzeit has glommed onto some prime real estate. The restaurant lies right at the front of Thong Lor 10, across the street from Wine Republic and only a five-minute walk from J-Avenue, as well as loads of other cafés and restaurants. The eatery’s exterior certainly fits the bill of a Thong Lor establishment with dim lights, slick music and a spacious outdoor terrace overlooking the busy road.
However, Brotzeit’s interior can best be described as confused. The design gropes at stylishness, with black wallpaper depicting quirky characters and steel kegs propped up in one corner. But Brotzeit’s lighting scheme is much too bright to invoke thoughtfulness. Wooden benches and a long counter serve as nice throwbacks to Bavarian fashion. But for a restaurant in Thong Lor that markets itself as a high-end hangout, there was something missing here in terms of ambience.
The menu is printed in both English and German and offers up a hefty selection of German draft beers. According to the drink list, every beer is 100% natural, brewed with pure spring water and imported from Germany. There’s even a full page dedicated to Biermischgetränke, or Beermixes, a popular Deutschland custom blends half a glass of beer with half a glass of soda. For example, a Radler is lager with lemonade or Sprite and a Schwarzer is beer and cola. I ordered up a Radler, which came true-to-form but not quite cold enough to satisfy the pallet of a dedicated beer drinker.
As far as food goes, Brotzeit comes up with all the German staples that you could imagine, including lots of breads, spreads, sausages and salads. There are also big platters for sharing, like the Brotzeitplatte or Brotzeit platter (THB1,600) for four to five people or the Brettljause or cold platter (THB1,250) for up to three. The most starving of souls might go for the pork knuckle (THB750) with sauerkraut and potato salad or load up on side dishes like spicy potato wedges (THB150) or braised white German cabbage (THB110).
To start, my dining partner and I dipped into the Brotzeit Brot (THB280), a small-scale version of the Brotzeit platter. The dish was a collection of bread slices topped with ham, cheese, veggies and pickles then struck through with toothpicks. The platter was neat and tasty but there wasn’t anything wildly zestful about it.
Likewise, the Schweinemedaillions, or “pork medallions” (THB310), had the right idea but lacked a depth of taste. Comprised of grilled pork fillet, wrapped in smoked bacon and served with fries and sautéed vegetables (although we substituted fries for mashed potatoes), the dish was to its credit colorfully presented.
The Kalbsrahmgulasch, or “veal goulash” (THB420), however, hit the spot. Cooked to perfection and soaked in paprika sauce, the veal shank performed admirably. The goulash was served with Spätzle – a die-hard Bavarian egg noodle dish that can either be heavenly or horrible depending on how it’s done. Brotzeit’s Spätzle is actually pretty good, buttered and topped as it is with crispy onions.
I was most excited for dessert, which came in the form of a Kaiserschmarren, or Emperor’s cake (THB280), a regional treasure that I’ve heard much about. It consists of shredded pancake pieces served with rum, raisins, icing, sugar and plum sauce.
The Emperor’s cake, unfortunately, failed to live up to is renown. The pieces were dry and tasteless and the dish came out with a light applesauce and not the darker plum sauce that was pictured on the menu. Priced at nearly THB300, this dish wasn’t worth its cost. In fact, we didn’t eat it and nearly sent it back.
The food at Brotzeit wasn’t bad, but it definitely didn’t justify its price tag. The kitchen also closed at 10:30pm, which is early by the standard of other Thong Lor eateries.
Likewise, Brotzeit’s service was well intentioned but unskilled. Our server was kind, but came to the table much too often. While we told her we needed a second with the menu, she continued to hover tableside. These are kinks that can be worked out over time and with training, but with so much competition in Thong Lor, these aren’t mistakes a diner wants to deal with.
I like Brotzeit’s concept, but not its lackluster execution. While the kitschy, black forest atmosphere of your typical Bavarian restaurant can often turn you off German cuisine for a fortnight, I found myself walking out of Brotzeit’s doors longing for ladies in dirndls and checkered tablecloths.
FIND IT:
Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Restaurant
No. 308 @Thong Lor 10, Sukhumvit 55, Bangkok Thailand
Tel. +6623923969, +66819205929
Hours: 12 pm – 12 am daily
Photos: Barbara Woolsey
