COCONUTS HOT SPOT — While many posh dining spots and hotels have grown up around where Sanguan Sri opened 45 years ago, the original hole-in-the-wall restaurant remains a favorite for both expats and born-heres.
Sanguan Sri has never been revamped; the 70s interior and furniture remain pretty much where they originally were since Miss Sanguansri opened the place in 1970. Part of that is because she continued owning it until just before hitting 100 she died about six years ago with no heir to pass it along to.
With no one taking control, the staff just continued running the restaurant ever since!
They told us that they need to start cooking at 5-ish in the morning to get everything ready by 10am opening time. As you know, typical Thai food always takes a looooong while.
The dining room resembles a school canteen with long tables and mismatched blue chairs. A Chinese-style round dining table set stands at the back of the restaurant. Miss Sanguansri is gone so we couldn’t ask, but we took this to mean ambience and decor were not priorities; rather, all her energy was dedicated to the cuisine.
Cold Chinese tea was served the minute we arrived without needing to order (free!). Followed by some signature dishes suggested by an old-yet-active waitress who said she’s worked there over half her life. The street-meets-ancient Thai dishes such as Kaeng Jued Look Rog (Chicken Consomme with Egg-in-pork intestine Sausage and Vegetable, THB60) delivered us the naturally sweet flavor from the boiled-onion texture, which was almost blended together with the soup.
“These days, a lot of people have turned to using CP artificial pork intestines, instead of the real ones,” the veteran waitress said. “But we still use the real ones, as those artificials aren’t delicious and taste more like tofu.”
We decided to listen to her recommendations and ordered a few more dishes that would go well with the soup.
What completely took us by surprise was how quick the food was served, which might not be the case if you pop in at peak hours.
Kai Pa Lo (THB60) – boiled eggs, tofu and pork bellies in the seasonal gravy was overly sweet from the overly added palm sugar. We could tell from its colour that they left it over the night to allow the meat to absorb the seasonal soup which resulted in the rich and delicate texture.
We visited before the end of May, when the seasonal (summer) signature Kao Chae (rice soaked in cold jasmine-scented water and topped up with jasmine flowers, THB220) came with its components; kapi ball, stuffed shallots, stuffed sweet peppers, shredded sweetened pork, chai po (stir-fried sweet pickled Chinese turnips with eggs), carved fingerroots and cucumbers.
Long ago, before ice machines and air-con, people loved having Kao Chae in the summer. The cold rice alleviated the scorching summer heat. Even now, the lady told us that many regular customers take their seniors to Sanguan Sri to enjoy Kao Chae. Though, it’s not that popular among the new gen.
The same waitress recommended us to try kapi balls together with the fingerroot before finishing off the bite with a spoonful of cold rice.
“The fingerroot will cut down the fishy aroma,” she explained. “Go for the components first and follow with some cold rice. Don’t eat them all together at once because the iced water rice will go oily.”
Aside from these dishes above, Pra ram long song (pork with peanut sauce and chinese spinash, 60THB), Kao Tung Na Tang (Crispy rice cake and pork and shrimp dip, THB 60-120), and Candied Golden Banana with Salty Coconut Cream is something that cannot be easily found in ordinary street-food restaurants.
On a classic spin, it’s one of few places that doesn’t now add a service charge; however, they bill you by the person for the air conditioning. (THB3 each!). Eat here with a group and you’ll probably spend less than THB100 per person.
For foreign customers, there’s an English menu available at the counter, but you need to ask for it.
The place is open from 10am to 3pm, but if you plan to arrive after 11 am, you’d better book a table. It’s too popular, and there’s a high chance that you won’t find a table without a reservation.
FIND IT:
Sanguan Sri
65/1 Wireless Road
Next to Plaza Athenee Hotel
10am to 3pm, Monday – Saturday
BTS Phloen Chit, Exit No. 2
