Editor’s Note: Permanently Closed.
COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE – Friedrich Nietschze once wrote, “a strong and well-constituted man digests his experiences just as he digests his meats.” Shuffle, a freshly minted upscale chophouse, provides the opportunity to pursue both types of mastication at the same time.
Shuffle is the brainchild of former Burger Factory chef Krisda Chintakananda, who has moved a few sois up Sukhumvit and hung his own shingle at the Rainhill community mall. The restaurant boasts an industrial design with exposed ductwork, concrete and steel. It resembles the converted loft of a New Yorker or Berliner, except with an open kitchen that reveals much of the restaurant’s action behind a sheet of transparent glass.
The name Shuffle pays credence to a philosophy that favors fresh ingredients and rotating menu items. For example, this month’s specials include a wagyu steak with sautéed asparagus and mushrooms (THB1,000) and house-made red mullet gnocchi (THB390) with pesto-flavored butter frisée. American cuisine finishes out the rest of the menu. Rib eye, strip loin (both THB850), lamb (THB425) and gourmet burgers embody Shuffle’s aesthetic, which leans heavily towards home-cooked goodness, executed with a little swank.
The menu also features old-time favorites, re-imagined and fried up with flare. The herb fries and signature cheesy dip (THB165) or beer-battered string beans and roasted garlic aioli provide perfect examples of this type. Healthier options include the mouth-watering peach and prosciutto (THB250) or bacon with roasted eggplant salad (THB225).
My favorite touch came right at the beginning of the meal. I already knew about Shuffle’s complimentary croissants, having heard foodie friends liken them to crack cocaine, and I have to admit they’re amazing. The croissants were warm and soft to the point of effervescence. My dining partner and I asked for a second helping, and I found myself wondering if there was a limit to how many “second helpings” one could procure.
Shuffle serves up craft beers from Beervana and a fun little list of signature cocktails. The 3 Berry Basil (THB230) is a great summer concoction, served up in a jug. It consists of vodka, mixed berries, apple and basil topped with beer. Usually, I’m not one to mix the hops and spirits, but this has just the right feeling of refreshment and tastes much like a fruit beer.
The “lojito” (THB230) takes the traditional mojito and augments it with lychee, basil and a dash of lemongrass. It’s neither too sweet nor too sour and comes masterfully presented, with every leaf placed daintily within the glass. For the rest of May, cocktails, Guinness and La Trappe White half-pints are buy-two-get-one-free.
The parma ham rustic quesadilla (THB195) lived up to the Shuffle guarantee of freshness, but I would have liked to see a little more filling on the inside. It was served with a spicy dip, but I much preferred the garlic aioli. It brought out the flavors of the parma ham and cheese.
While the quesadilla was lacking in filling, I officially achieved meat-gasm in my main course – the BBQ ribs (THB400) served with curly fries and coleslaw. The dish wasn’t presented with a steak knife, but I soon realized that it wouldn’t be necessary, as the meat parted easily from the bone in juicy strips.
The pork loin (THB450) dominated its plate with just a dollop of mashed potatoes and lettuce on the side. I felt like I needed a cloth bib to conquer this dish, as it was roughly the size of my face. Though the loin itself proved soft and delicious, I would have appreciated more potato. However, something tells me the portion on this one was pre-meditated by the chef.
Post-dinner, I was so full I could barely squirm in my seat. Maybe this was also pre-meditated, because I ended up staying at the restaurant and ordering more cocktails to ease the pain. The staff was very attentive, always keeping an eye on the table and eagerly clearing empty glasses and plates. Every dish arrived at its appropriate moment.
Like the restaurant more generally, the service at Shuffle benefits from fine culinary instincts, paired with a fetishistic delight in pleasing the determined diner.
FIND IT:
Shuffle
Rainhill 4th Floor, 777 Sukhumvit 49, Bangkok, Thailand
Tel. +6622616992
Hours: 11am – 11:30pm daily
Photos: Barbara Woolsey
