COCONUTS HOTSPOT — Bangkok’s soaring rent prices left restaurateur Toey Na Ranong with a choice: close his restaurant, CHU, and move elsewhere or figure out a clever way to combat a near 30 percent increase in rent.
His solution: close his neighboring restaurant Boran, knock down the wall between them and build a fully capable kitchen to expand the range of foods on CHU’s new menu. In two months CHU went through a complete overhaul and has emerged as a restaurant far beyond the dessert café that it was before.
For almost three years CHU has been a spot for eggs benedict and hot chocolate, and the classics still make an appearance on the menu, but what’s been added is far more exciting. The menu focuses on artisanal goods from local producers like Sloane’s sausages, fresh juice from Twist, bread from Maison Jean Phillipe, and produce from Adam’s Organic.
It should be noted that CHU was doing the all-day-breakfast routine long before it became a citywide trend. When it comes to a brunch menu, CHU has it down pat. The pancakes (THB240) are served with maple butter and a hefty portion of strawberries or blueberries. The French toast (THB250) is done with a devilish twist of cream cheese and a raspberry coulis. Rather than a traditional Mexican breakfast presentation, Toey has infused some Italian flair in the breakfast tacos (THB300) by using meatballs and ricotta cheese in addition to the standard eggs and cheddar. Both hard and soft shells are used in order to guarantee your taco doesn’t break apart to sabotage your enjoyment.
Toey has added a new selection of specials savory dishes to showcase the capabilities of the new kitchen. The Juicy Lucy burger (THB350) uses 150 grams of Australian beef slathered in tomato jam and cheddar cheese on a brioche bun. Salmon is marinated for 72 hours in a miso-sake blend then grilled with mushrooms and asparagus. Lighter fare comes in the form of crab and apple salad, a mix of lumps of crab, Granny Smith apples and mixed lettuce dressed in dill yogurt.
With dozens of conglomerates and megacorps occupying Exchange Tower and the surrounding area, CHU has won the hearts of Westerners and midlevel executives with their assortment of paninis and salads. Joe Sloane’s wares find their way into the chorizo Panini (THB250), while his smoked bacon is featured on the BLT (THB180). A new sous-vide machine cooks the chicken used on the pesto chicken Panini (THB220)
Despite the newfound capabilities of CHU’s kitchen, it hasn’t strayed too far from its roots – a large portion of the menu is still dedicated to sweet treats.
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