There’s nothing simple about organic in Bangkok. From cost and availability, to a lack of interest and knowledge, organic food is a niche consideration.
Enough so to forget it’s rooted in the simplest of things. Perhaps that’s the idea behind “Simple,” a new restaurant-grocer on Sukhumvit Soi 31, where organic eating and living is celebrated as not only healthy but chic. And yes, a little pricey too.
Open for less than two months, Simple has developed a good online buzz, especially for its brunch menu. Its growing fame is also helped by the trending hype about organic foods and organic living in general. Whereas before only a handful of grocers such as Lemonfarm, The Royal Projects at Doikham, and a few other upscale retailers provided pesticide-free vegetables, fruits,and groceries, Simple is one of few to prepare such meals.
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Being a brunch lover I made my trip to the restaurant as soon as I left work on a Tuesday evening. Not a very popular hour for brunch perhaps, but fortunately the restaurant runs their popular brunch signboard all day—so even at 7p.m., a full-scale English Breakfast Set (THB280) is available.
That’s a no-brainer choice for brunchers anywhere; one can’t really go wrong with an English breakfast. As long as you have all the components necessary to deserve the name, that ham, chickpea, and omelet combination will always work its magic just fine. And at Simple, their English Breakfast easily meets the standard.
So of more interest were the dishes which not commonly found on most menus. The owner recommended their Special of the Day: Pan-Fried Red Grouper with Cinnamon Butter and Mashed Potato (THB520). It’s this very dish that I ended up shedding tears of joy over. While the fish was perfectly cooked and seasoned, the cinnamon butter miraculously harmonized fish and mash in an unbelievable way. It was gone in a matter of minutes: a definite thumbs-up with a golden star and a big blue ribbon for this one.
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Less impressive, unfortunately, was the Risotto Spicy Sausage (THB320), which didn’t quite meet the hefty expectation built by the magic red grouper dish. But the first few bites of this risotto dish tasted absolutely bland. To be fair, the risotto was not all that horrible, but it wasn’t until the dish was nearly completed that it began to make sense. Perhaps all the good parts sat at the bottom of the bowl, and I should have been instructed to stir before eating. I have no idea. Something was right; but something was also definitely wrong.
Not to be missed are the veggies dishes. With all the fresh organic produce in stock, it would be a wasted trip to not order at least one of their delicious salads. The Simple Salad (THB190), a dish with avocado and zucchini, is recommended, and although the Bean & Hazelnut in Lemon Dressing (THB180) and Tomato Panzanella & Anchovy (THB220) went untested, they sound promising.
If you’re also a brunch fan, chances are you will love it. Aside from the full English Breakfast set that everyone was having, Simple also serves Eggs Benedict (THB260), Frittata & Slow Roasted Tomato (THB180), Organic Peanut Butter & Mulberry Jam with Forest Honey on Toast (THB190), fancy French Toast (THB180) and pancakes (THB160)—all of which are made with 100 percent organic produce.
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For sweet, I chewed on the chewiest brownie (THB150) I’ve had in months. It’s just the kind of brownie that has been missing from Bangkok’s dessert scene. It is served with two scoops of ice cream—hazelnut and strawberry banana, both of which taste pretty decent.
On the grocer side, Simple offers fresh-baked croissants, baguette, and breads. Sometimes there are pies, many kinds of cakes, and even cookies or meringue. Most of the time, you can also shop for organic spices, vegetables and fruits. What’s available varies from day to day, but that should ensure its freshness.
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Tel. 02 662 2510
Address: 235/5 Sukhumvit 31, Khlong Toei Nuae Watthana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
Hours: 9am-8pm, Tuesdays through Fridays; 7am-8pm, Saturdays and Sundays
