The Hua Mark neighborhood in northern Bangkok is home to a unique assortment of international and regional cuisines. The confluence of ethnic groups in the region brings about a mix of small family restaurants that serve up some of the best recipes on this side of the city.
Seit Taing Kya
Operated by a group of young and cheery Burmese guys, this place serves delicious dishes for as low as THB35. The chicken curry roti come complete with a rich and oily red curry and a portion of chicken to pair with the Indian favorite. Typically roti are served as a dessert, but this savory rendition is one of the restaurants most popular lunchtime dishes. STP’s tealeaf salad is resolutely Burmese, and offers an interesting blend of textures, using wilted teal leaves, dried shrimp, nuts and oil to complete its bouquet. With prices hovering around THB40, you can try an entire range of dishes.
FIND IT:
Ramkhamhaeng 24
Soi Abac, located 50m on the left hand side
Rung Thiem
Rung Thiem serves Isaarn food in a luk-thueng style wooden country house. Rifles, oil-burning lanterns and pictures of the King adorn the walls, paying reference to Thai country life from generations past. Steak is the must-try dish here, which comes in a nua yarng-like presentation that includes veggies and a homemade nam-jim sauce made especially for the steak.
FIND IT:
Ramkhamhaeng 24
Located next to the entrance of Baan Isaara
Gai Yang Kati Sod
This outdoor restaurant is run by a troop of burka-clad women who systematically serve their specialty, gai yang kati – a dish that consists of juicy pieces of chicken soaked in coconut milk and spices. This dish recalls Southern-style cooking, while the rest of the menu is distinctly Isaarn, with a selection of zap, spicy som tam and grilled meats. Just don’t ask for any pork dishes and you’ll do just fine.
FIND IT:
Ramkhamhaeng 24, Yaek 18
Across from Inter Place Hotel
Lan Ahan Nok
Owned by jazz musician Ko Teerasak, this simple joint serves a unique interpretation of kuay tiew hang popular with the locals. The bowl of noodles is coated in oil with a healthy dose of muu yarng and pine nuts, and som tum spices. This is the only place in Bangkok where you’ll find this unique recipe.
FIND IT:
Rama 9 Soi 51
The restaurant is located 100 meters in the soi on the right
Photos: Cole Pennington