The Great Mexican Standoff: Part 2

COCONUTS HOT SPOT – “This guy doesn’t know what he’s talking about,” they cried. “It’s obviously a paid-for piece.” The moans could be heard all the way to the Oaxacan Coast. “What about La Monita? El Diablo? Señor Pico?” It’s as if the clearly labeled “Part 1” was as insignificant as a Hangover sequel.

READ: The Great Mexican Standoff: Part 1

So let’s begin where we left off. La Monita, or as some might say “blahnita.” Yeah, yeah, I know, I know; California this and that, I hear you. Everyone loves it, but I just don’t get it. The food is fine but it’s not really unique or special and it’s certainly not a bargain.  The place is tiny and loud, the seating cramped and uncomfortable, the service friendly but sloppy and the queue for the single toilet even more annoying when all you want to do is wash your hands.  They do get credit for their salsas, though. The salsa bar has some of the best salsas in town, and it’s gratis with your food order. If you decide to spring for the homemade Nacho Chips (THB112), then it’s better to upgrade to the Queso Fundido (THB410), a smooth cheese dip blended with seasonings and a meat (or sin carne) of your choice. The Margaritas are also delicious, but again, way overpriced for the tiny size and small slap it’s packing. Fans of La Monita will be glad to know that in addition to their original location and their Taco Truck in the Paragon food court, they also have a new branch at the EmQuartier mall at Phrom Phong station.

Actually La Monita’s prices only seem expensive until you go to Señor Pico. Owned by and operated inside the Rembrandt Hotel, Pico has the priciest Mexican food I’ve ever seen anywhere in the world. And yet, it almost seems like good value.  

A friend, who is well experienced in the art of the cuisine, recently proclaimed Pico has the best Mexican food he’s ever eaten. I’m inclined to agree. Everything they do impresses.Start with Guacamole (THB293). The Guac especialista will push her cart with all the necessities over to your table and ask you how you like it. Salty? Sweet? Spicy? Up to you. She’ll mix it up right there and let you try it and critique it and adapt it to your taste. It’s a genuinely beautiful experience. You can also customize your Tacos (THB345 for three) with a variety of Mexican and Gringo style toppings. You really can’t go wrong with anything on this menu, but if you really want to treat yourself, go for the US Certified Black Angus Steak Fajitas (THB644). The steak is so tasty and tender that it melts in your mouth as softly as the tortilla it’s wrapped in. Unfortunately the margaritas (THB293) are pretty weak, so you may want to down a couple straight tequila shots before you take a look at the check-bin.

The go-to spot for burritos has always been and remains El Diablo. The Bangkok location is even better than the original in Chiang Mai. Tender meat, tasty beans, seasoned veggies and spicy salsas wrapped up in a grilled, homemade flour tortilla, for under THB200. If only there was an El Diablo near every BTS station.  As it is, their only location is only convenient to those living or working on Soi 22 and 24, and the dining area is pretty limited. But the Margaritas (THB165) and ice cold Beer Lao (THB105) make the journey worth it. The owner also has plans to expand the dining area in the near future and add some BBQ items like Pulled Pork Tacos and Spare Ribs.

Some patrons of El Diablo and the recently opened Casa Azul have noticed similarities between some of the food, most notably the nacho chips, tortillas and salsa. The owners insist there is no connection between the two.

In any case, this new restaurant is good news for Northside amigos who can now drink an irresponsible number of tequilas closer to home. This is also one of the rare places in Bangkok you can find homemade Tamales (THB150), which is a traditional Mesoamerican dish made of corn-based masa stuffed with marinated pork and steamed in a corn husk.



Social media is also buzzing about their specials and events every night of the week like Beer Pong on Tuesdays and Latin dance parties on Thursdays.  

Another new restaurant down the same street is taking the fast food taco approach. Tacos Factory, located inside the Sanannapa garden, offers a basic menu of Tacos (THB69), Nachos (THB99) and Quesadillas (THB150) along with a couple unique items like Pizza Tacos (THB139).



But there is nothing unique about what they are doing here. Tortillas and taco shells come from a box, the “salsa” is some kind of chopped, unseasoned tomato from a can, and the nacho cheese is squeezed straight out of a plastic bag onto your store-bought chips. All of this is done right in front of you and they don’t even heat it up first.


Well at least it’s honest. You’re much better off crossing the street to Sabroso inside of Villa Ari. The menu is the same but the food is better and the prices slightly cheaper.

Tacos and homemade tortillas are hardly news anymore with new venues and trucks popping up almost weekly. But one taco truck in particular is upping the game, not only for tacos but the whole food truck scene. Two Angels Tacos is the creation of a California native who wanted to bring real Los Angeles style street tacos to the other city of angels. He imports the masa he uses to make delicious soft corn tortillas along with the spices he needs for homemade chorizo.

The Tacos (THB60) are the freshest and most fairly priced in town. You can choose from traditional toppings like Carne Asada, Al Pastor (BBQ pork), Shrimp, or Carnitas, but the fuss is about the fusion “Thaico” options like Tom Yum Kung, Gai Yang Somtam (grilled chicken and somtam), and Larb Moo (spicy pork salad).


They also do the LA classic “Roy Choi” which is a Korean BBQ style taco made famous by the Kogi Truck in California. If you’re still hungry, try the Animal Fries (THB150) with melted cheese, grilled onions, and secret sauce, or the Carne Asada Fries with cheese, onions, cilantro, avocado sauce and Chile Rojo. This truck doesn’t have a regular location rotation so check their facebook page first.

Another truck supposedly doing some nice things is Cactus BKK Taco. They seem to be aiming more upscale with their presentation and prices. Reports sound mostly positive, but the truck is hard to catch.They don’t have a set schedule nor do they update their facebook status (i.e. location) very frequently. Your chances of catching them are probably higher if you frequent the Sathorn or Suan Phlu area.

Easier to find every night of the week is the Taco Taxi which is located outside the Ambassador Hotel from 6pm until at least 2am. This brainchild of Charley Brown’s Mexicana (also on Soi 11) features many of the same items up to the same high standard.

Classic Tacos (THB80), Double Decker Tacos (THB90) and Burritos (THB140) are always solid, but the real highlight here is the Beef Nachos (THB160) which are piled high and topped with Shredded Beef imported from Australia, authentic Chili con Queso, Refried Beans, Sour Cream and as much Salsa as you like. There’s a garden in front of the truck where you can enjoy their legendary Margaritas (THB100) or order a jug of draft Singha from the vendor next door.

Much less impressive is the Express Mexican stall at W District. The operator hails from Mexico City, which should be a good sign, but the food has a surprisingly odd Asian taste about it.

Even the salsa tastes like straight up sambal-style chili paste. The Beef Burrito (THB200) is very dry and the bland and the Chicken Taco (THB80) is just plain strange. The chicken is diced into perfectly shaped little cubes and marinated in some kind of sweet watery sauce. There are too many other options at W District to waste time with this one.

A few updates from the Mexican spots included in Part 1: Charley Brown’s Mexicana has started catering to chili-heads in a serious way.  Not only can you customize the heat level of your dishes, but the owner has a collection of some of the absolute hottest sauces that would make Satan himself sweat. Sunrise Taco has closed their flagship store at Sukhumvit Soi 12, but have expanded nearby inside the Subway sandwich shops at Sukhumvit Soi 7/1 and Soi 33/1.

Que Pasa has expanded their all-day breakfast menu and is now offering a huge Biscuits and Gravy (THB180) platter on the weekends. The gravy is already loaded with meat, but you can also add two strips of premium bacon for an extra THB74.

One thing that never changes is Bourbon Street‘s Tuesday night Mexican Buffet (THB351). This was one of the original places in town serving Mexican food. Don’t expect anything gourmet. The food here is more like the “Old El Paso” dinners mom used to make. And that’s not a knock; there’s an undeniable charm about it.  The buffet starts at 6pm. Go early while the place is busy and the food is still fresh.

Other new openings to be on the lookout for are Barrio Bonito from Koh Chang which is planning to open a branch in Bangkok, reportedly somewhere on or near Thong Lor. Later this year, Daniel Thaiger Burger is planning to open a new Luca Thaiger taco truck, and there are signs on Sukhumvit Soi 4 advertising a new place called The Mexican coming soon to a fairly large spot outside the Raja Hotel. But sadly, still no Miguel’s. Cry on.

Related:

The Great Mexican Standoff: Part 1

 



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