Frippery follows function at ‘Masala Art’

COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE — In 1917, Marcel Duchamp bought a porcelain urinal, signed it “R. Mutt” and submitted it to the US Society of Independent Artists as “art,” arguably instigating the conceptual art movement. In 2001, Martin Creed won the Turner, Britain’s most prestigious art prize, for “Work No. 227: The lights going on and off.” It was exactly that: an empty room with the lights flicking on and off every five seconds. Just this week a framed print-out of a screenshot from 4chan was sold on eBay – a clip of a post by an anonymous user that said, simply: “Art used to be something to cherish. Now literally anything could be art. This post is art.” How much did this piece of meta-tomfoolery fetch? A mere US$90,000. You see, even throwaway online ramblings about the devaluation of art can be art. Which means, I guess, that what you are reading right now is art. And do you know what else is art? My lily-white bum.

Seen in this light, the conceit behind this week’s restaurant, Masala Art, seems entirely sensible. Welcome to a world of curry – that is to say “gravy” – as art. The restaurant goes by the slogan “The Art of Blending Spices.” Menu sections get titles like “soft hues and watercolours,” “first impressions” and “heavy strokes.” I’m not entirely convinced such gimmickry is necessary – why compare food to something else, when it’s already such a wonderful thing in itself? But whether it’s superfluous or not, the good news is that Masala Art is responsible for some of the best Indian cooking in town.

The restaurant came to mind after reading a discussion on Desperately Seeking, a handy Facebook page set up to help this city’s residents Desperately Seek items, people, jobs and services, as well as ask questions – some reasonable, some crying out for links to Let Me Google That For You. Last week a poster asked for a recommendation on a Sukhumvit Indian restaurant. The Bangkokian hive mind seemed to settle on two contenders as the finest: the excellent Mrs Balbir’s and Masala Art. With unconventional definitions of art in the news, it seemed a good time to give the latter a fresh test run.

Masala Art is a rung up in luxuriousness from your average Sukhumvit curry emporium, most of which are crowded around the ever-fruity Nana area. M.A., on the other hand, is perched haughtily on the second floor of the posh Ei8ht Thonglor mini-mall – yes, mall food again. It’s a sumptuous space with an Anglo-Mughal feel, ethereal silk sheets suspended from the ceiling, sturdy hardwood furniture, Mughal lamps, filigree and the sleek silverware of a fine-diner. A balcony provides a commanding view of a very different world: the endlessly buzzing vehicular deathtrap known as Soi Thonglor.

Service came quickly and before long a tree-like frame bearing conical poppadums was set in front of us. Then we were served glass mugs of an energizing and remarkably orange chicken broth, the kind of thing you imagine Indian mothers give their kids to cure colds. I ordered a Bhune Jeera Ki Chaas (THB120) which is a spicy, herbal yogurt drink with flavors of green chili, coriander and ginger. I was warned it was intense, and by heck it was. An acquired taste, these salty Indian yogurt drinks are, but not unpleasant.

A large Kebab Platter (THB1,100) was mostly excellent, with intense marinades on succulent turmeric-yellow prawns and fish and tandoori-red lamb kebabs. The chicken was a touch dry, and were it not for the marinade, tasteless, but not off-puttingly so. Meat is almost superfluous in Indian cuisine, and as if to underline this, the Lal Merch Paneer Tikka (THB295) bested the aforementioned, with fiery red cubes of Indian cheese slightly charred, firm and creamy inside. Roast onions and tomatoes and the bright, light contribution of what could only be described as an Indian coleslaw rounded the dish off.

When the curries arrived – the “heavy strokes” as the menu has it – Saag Paneer (THB275) stole the show, a rich, vibrant-green blend of fresh spinach and spices. The Murg Methi Malai (THB320) was a dangerously creamy curry flavored with fenugreek. Lamb Jalfrezi’s flavors (THB375) were more robust and fiery, while Goan Fish Curry (THB395) was a lighter counterpoint with the subtle zing of mustard seeds, though it might – at that price – have contained more fish.

All too often, Indian restaurants offer 17 different curries, all of which seem to be a slight variation on two or three dishes. Here each dish tasted very much of itself, and with each a distinct hue, looked itself too. This thoroughly enjoyable meal finished, we looked at our plates decorated with streaks and splatters of spinach green, turmeric yellow, tandoori red. It all looked rather a lot like modern art. Which leads us back to our original question. Is this art? Who knows? But it tastes pretty damn good.

Coconut’s Critics Table reviews are written based on unannounced visits by our writers and paid for by Coconuts Bangkok. No freebies here.

FIND IT:

Masala Art
Ei8ht Thonglor, Soi Thonglor 8
2nd Floor, Unit L-205
Sukhumvit Soi 55
11am – 3pm (Lunch)
6pm – 11pm (Dinner)

Dan Waites is the author of Culture Shock! Bangkok, a guide to the culture, customs and expat life in the Thai capital. Follow him on Twitter: @danwaites



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