COCONUTS HOTSPOT — “The city has very little greenery, and we’re really into open, natural spaces,” said Kunming-born Lucy, co-owner of Ari’s new Rock Restaurant and Bar. A common sentiment shared by many transplants from greener cities. What husband and wife Lucy and Richard Emden did to remedy this was to create their own nature-inspired space of their own called Rock Restaurant and Bar in a sleepy Ari sub-soi
Richard Emden’s background in fashion design helped to furnish the intimate black-and-white themed interior, with its free-form marble tables and Chiang Mai-crafted stoneware bowls and plates. The inspiration came from Emden’s jewelry designs. In addition, the dining area is dotted with semi-precious stones in the form of figurines intended to bring balance and health to patrons. In the near future the space will be filled floor-to-ceiling with plants to match the current array of geological decorations.
Joseph Borowski created a cocktail menu for Rock that matches the metamorphic theme, with drinks such as Liquid Jade, a lush mixture of cucumber, kiwi and vodka. Another offering, the Red Earth, utilizes a fiery dose of red pepper and paprika.
The idea behind the menu is a culinary philosophy developed by Lucy and Richard under which dishes employ hyper-local ingredients, like produce from the renowned Royal Project and even coconuts sourced from a nearby street vendor. They call this local approach “Siamisation,” and use it to reinterpret import dishes such as regional Chinese cuisines to the Thai palette. That means the kitchen doesn’t go easy on the heat — Rock’s dishes are particularly spicy.
At the helm of the kitchen is Bhi-mon, who earned his stripes at David Thompson’s lauded Nahm and Noi formerly of Parata Diamond.
For diners who want to sample cocktails and share plates tapas-style, Rock has come up with “perfect bites,” which are small plates with portions of three, six or nine. Chinese bao buns, Java chicken satay, and Isarn beef sausage occupy this section of the menu. Appetizers are hefty, and a particularly interesting entry is the crab cream cheese wafers, small taco-like shells filled with a heady dollop of rich, creamy crab stuffing. The crispy oysters stand out, a light fried coating locks in the briny flavor of the visceral mass; the oysters are served over a bed of tart larb moo. Thai-style salads complement the appetizers, although some of these salads, like the beef bavette salad, are a large enough portion to be served as a main. The beef salad employs beef from an organic farm in Chonburi, the beef is uncharacteristically fatty compared to domestically raised beef found elsewhere. Mains are mostly staple Thai dishes with an upscale twist: Khao soi nuea makes an appearance but uses organic braised beef shank from the aforementioned Chonburi farm. One of the most original dishes has to be the pandan noodles: nests of pungent pandan noodles served with a bowl of fiery southern curry substantiated by ample blue crab chunks.
FIND IT:
7/1 Soi Chumnanaaksorn
Paholyothin 9 Road
BTS Ari
