There’s no shortage of trattorias and risorantes in Bangkok, but here unfortunately Italian food often means sugar-infused spaghetti and ketchup-sauced pizzas; a sad trend.
About trends, the newly popularized horrific Hitler-chic fad is very similar to most of Bangkok’s Italian-inspired dishes: bastardization and misinterpretation of European ideas through lack of education or exposure.
But we’ve found a diamond in the rough, one of a handful of true Italian eateries in Krungthep, and it comes in the form of the Italian restaurant Watermark IL Ristoranto Italiano.
The food ranks as one of Bangkok’s best and most authentic. While the pizza is outstanding, do it proper justice and come for a 5-course meal in a fine dining setting.
The ethnic breakdown of the diners backs up our opinion that the food is stellar—a handful of Italians with a few international-looking Thais. Everyone is smartly dressed and tables are spaced far enough apart that it’s impossible to hear that tableside chatter that plagues the tightly packed joints on Thonglor’s main soi.
The staff is attentive, however it’s apparent that they haven’t made the menu their own and mastered the dishes. They can be a little skittish when it comes to details and specific ingredients. We can look past this small snafu because Chef Ernesto, an Italian native, is more than happy to come out of the kitchen and give diners a crash course on the many intricacies and techniques he uses in his traditional Italian cooking. You have two languages to choose from: English with a thick Italian accent or Japanese. He’s fluent in both.
In the case that he’s too busy, Coconuts will give you the run-down. Finding your way around an Italian menu is relatively easy because the cuisine is so good that recipes don’t stray too much from tradition. They just don’t need to. We’re not saying it’s an easy cuisine to pull off – it takes serious attention to detail and a certain scrutiny that only Italians and expertly trained chefs posses.
In order to consume a complete Italian meal – from pastas to fish to meat – it’s essential to choose an appropriate sequence of courses that covers all the bases.
Start off the feast with the Minestrone alla Milanes, a hearty vegetable soup accented with pesto and Parmesan. Next, be sure to order the Antipasto all‘Italiana to get a sampling of some timeless pairings like melon and Parma ham or salmon with fresh orange slices. The standout item of the Antipasto is the small slice of toasted bread topped with white truffle spread.
You can leave the Foie gras di fegato d‘oc to the French; it’ll leave you feeling sluggish early on in the meal.
If you’re planning on going for some heavy hitting meat for dinner then opt for appetizer Carpaccio di pesce spade, a trinity of swordfish, tuna and salmon mated with a zesty citrus sauce.
On the day Coconuts visited there was an appetizer special that’s worth ordering if it’s available: Porcini Risotto and Spinach Ravioli. The dish comes with a sizable portion incredible risotto topped with porcini; which is worth it alone. A healthy dose of ravioli is served alongside.
Ravioli, among other types of pasta are all made completely from scratch, and you can tell when you taste them. The pasta selection here is conservative, almost to the point of being boring. The pasta itself is phenomenal, but the sauces don’t stray too far from the norm: tomato, Bolognese and four cheese dominate the selection. There is, however, an interesting dish that is worth trying. It’s the Ravioli di patate con ragu di Coda di Rospo, Monkfish and potato ravioli in a white wine sauce. Monkfish is an ugly, bottom-dwelling fish that has a lobster-like texture and taste. Try this plate if you’re looking for something a little different, because most other seafood-based pastas are somewhat uninteresting.
The un-original theme continues with the Seafood entrees: Tuna, Cod, and Salmon – none of which is that exciting. The cod dish, Trancio di merluzzo e’enticchi ironically costs the most, but should be skipped. Cod, along with Whiting and Haddock, are commonly used for making fish sticks.
If you’re a pescatarian then the Tonno rosa alla griglia con salsa alle oliv is your best choice, due to the sizable portion of Tuna. For a bit of everything, try the Grigliata mista di pesce, a mix of prawn, Sea Bass, mussels, scallops and a medley of garden vegetables in a simply seasoned olive oil, it’s clean and light, and suited for a palette keen to mild flavors.
When it comes to Italian meat entrees, sticking to classics like the gluttonous Filetto Alla Rossini, beef topped with foie gras in a black truffle sauce, makes the most sense. In fact, there isn’t much on the menu that you’ll want to avoid, except maybe the bland Petto di Polo farcito al Mascarpon, a bland stuffed chicken staple on every Italian menu. Our pick? The Saltimbocca alla Roman, a hearty plate of veal served with broccoli.
After dinner ask your waiter for a Grappini, which isn’t on the menu but can easily be prepared. It’s a refreshing mix of Prosecco, Vodka and lemon sorbet served in a Champagne flute/
Even though the menu might be boring at times, the food is superb. Chef Ernesto is sticking to what he knows best and that’s traditional Italian. If you’re on a budget then skip the gross Thai-Italian “pizza” all around town and grab a lunch special wood fired pie here if a five-course meal isn’t doable.
Watermark IL Ristorante Italiano
131 Soi Sukhumwit 53 (Paidee-Madee) Sukhumvit Rd.
North Klongton Wattana Bangkok Thailand 10110
Tel : 02 7129991, 02 7129129
Fax: 02 7129960
E-mail : info@watermarkbangkok.com
