COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE – In a game of “I eat more obscure food than you do,” you could scarcely beat Nikkei, the hybrid cuisine created by Japanese immigrants to Peru 120 years ago. “I’ll see your Armenian and raise you Peruvian-Japanese fusion.” “Fold.” Perhaps this is why Above Eleven, a Nikkei bar-restaurant perched on top of the swanky Fraser Suites condominium building on Sukhumvit Soi 11, has managed to generate an almighty buzz in the few weeks it has been open. (Of course it could equally have something to do with the gazillions they’ve obviously spent on Facebook ads and the decision by the Bilderberg Group or whoever decides these things to anoint Peruvian as 2012’s Hot Ethnic Cuisine of the Year.)
When I called Above Eleven to book a 9pm table, I was first told it wouldn’t be possible. “It’s Saturday night,” the woman on the end of the phone said, sounding annoyed at my sheer gall. “We’re very busy. Can’t you come earlier?” After I told her I’d have to call back, she relented. It wasn’t exactly like calling Dorsia, but it was as close as it’s come for me in Bangkok.
Anyway, unlike the New York eatery of Patrick Bateman’s dreams, Above Eleven has a party atmosphere. This may or may not be to your taste. If you enjoy somewhat cheesy turn-of-the-millennium disco-house (like this and this), you will be in your element.
The view, which looks South over much of downtown Bangkok, is undoubtedly magnificent. It’s certainly up there with Vertigo, Sirocco, La Vue and the rest of Bangkok’s on-top-of-a-tall-building crowd. But hold your horses. As with the aforementioned establishments, you pay for that view. And then there’s this: The food kind of sucks.
It’s a bit scary writing about a cuisine you know next-to-nothing about. You don’t want to come off as an ignorant asshole, like David Sedaris writing about Chinese food, for example. But to use the words of every philistine everywhere, ever: “I don’t know much about Peruvian-Japanese fusion, but I know what I like.” And I’m not sure I liked what I ate at Above Eleven.
The chief offender was the sudado (THB530), a fish and clam stew with Japanese pumpkin broth and aji amarillo – a type of South American chili pepper that, if you’re not careful, will put this in your head (muhahaha!). The dish sounded like fun, but here’s the thing: I am a salt fiend. I practically ladle fish sauce onto my fried rice these days. But in the salinity stakes this soup would give seawater a run for its money. What were they trying to do? Make the fish feel at home? I could practically feel my blood pressure rising with every mouthful and failed to finish the bowl. To make matters worse, the Japanese rice accompanying the dish was overcooked. Bleurgh.
Then there was the tallarin saltado (THB530), essentially a sort of one-plate fried udon noodle dish with chunks of tonkatsu chicken on top. The sauce was given a decidedly non-Japanese twist with red vinegar, tomato and our friend the aji amarillo again. It wasn’t exactly bad, but it was eminently forgettable. And the fried chicken was on the soggy side. Most importantly, aside from the imported chili there seemed to be nothing in it that could possibly have justified the price tag.
The ceviche (THB550) was better: a cold, sour-as-hell broth with raw sea bass, tiger prawns, onions and topping of deep-fried baby squid. The combination of lemon and chili in the soup had a pleasing reminiscence to the superlative Thai staple pla nueng manao. And there was a nice combination of textures.
I don’t want to say avoid the food at Above Eleven. It will be a novelty to most Bangkok diners and something new, even if it isn’t heavenly, is often worth shelling out for. It hasn’t been open long, so things might improve (take that sudado to the desalination plant, chaps). And there’s a fair bit of stuff on the menu, including a load of sushi, sashimi and rolls, that I didn’t get round to trying.
Of course, you may well visit the venue purely for drinks and the glorious vista. The cocktails aren’t cheap though, at THB350 a pop. The Big Smokey Apple is an enjoyably sour mélange of Bacardi Apple, honey water, cinnamon syrup, green apple and lime juice. The Togatta Stiletto boasts an unusual combination of sake, prosecco, passion fruit puree and lychee that worked OK, though there wasn’t much of it. On the other hand, the Michelada, beer mixed with lemon, salt and pepper, was so salty and sour it literally made my friend shout “fucking hell” when he took his first sip. “This tastes horrible,” he later added, though his words were undermined by the fact that by this point he had managed to drink two-thirds of it.
On the plus side, the service was super fast and despite the impression given by the reservation phone call, the staff were actually rather lovely. Sorry guys! Anyhow, I’m off. Got an 8.30 res at Dorsia. And guess what? They serve sea urchin ceviche. Great!
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Coconut’s Critics Table reviews are written based on unannounced visits by our writers and paid for by Coconuts Bangkok. No freebies here.
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