NIGHT PROWL – To be honest, I’ve never given RCA much of a fair shot. Most of my friends are farang and I don’t really hang out with anybody that hits the nightlife strip between Rama IX and Phetchaburi on a regular basis. That’s not to say that the crowd doesn’t exist – Royal City Avenue is swarming with Thais and the odd expat and tourist on a Friday or Saturday night, hopping from bar to club to inevitably, soup stall. So why do my Farang friends hate it so much?
But alas, it’s been over a year since I last trolled RCA by night. So, I decided it was time to re-approach the strip with an open mind and a few more moons of drinking experience.
After splitting a pitcher of margaritas, my half-Thai friend and I wandered towards Phetchaburi in a taxi. I owe her a solid for this particular outing – despite running in mostly Thai circles and speaking the language fluently, my friend can’t stand RCA. She says it’s because of the Thai guys who, instead of delivering a smooth pickup line, generally like to bump into girls and feign surprise.
But when it comes to farang, I think one of the main problems with RCA is the cover policy, where foreigners must pay but Thais get in for free. The entry fee is usually redeemable for a drink ticket at most RCA nightclubs, but in Bangkok we’re often spoiled by a gratis party culture, be it free flow champagne, restaurant openings or ladies nights. Not just that but to charge some and not others is socially divisive in principle, even if it is only THB300.
Luckily, I escaped paying for cover, by letting my friend do the talking and also pretending to be Thai – setting off my Asian features with a frilly dress and a string of fake pearls.
First on the docket was Route 66 and after hearing about this nightclub for so long, I finally found an opportunity to waltz through the doors. The music was hip hop, not my style, so I can’t see myself ever going back again (though anything’s possible in an adventurous night of imbibing). The crowd itself was pretty fresh, I would say early 20’s and maybe even younger. But to their credit, I didn’t see any of the sloppiness that’s ubiquitous with the barely legals back at home.
Next, we mosied over to the adjoining Flix & Slim just as a club remix of “Blurred Lines” was painfully being busted out. The layout of the right-hand side speaks volumes about the Thai-style of clubbing – dozens and dozens of round tables surrounded by a scant patch of dance floor in the middle.
That’s where it got even more perplexing. Partygoers were packed around the tables, pouring Johnny Walker over ice and stirring. But every time the strobe light hit the crowd, I could see that no one was dancing. There was some indistinct bopping to the beat, some chatting, but a lot of people were simply standing on their own, just kind of looking around at everyone else. I mean, what’s the point in that?
The RCA crowd was overwhelmingly Thai, with a couple expats but I didn’t see any backpacker-types. I’m sure there must be the odd one – there’s still a stand renting shoes for THB 300 and selling socks for an additional THB 40, but I had to wake the vendor up from a power nap to even ask. I didn’t inquire if business was booming.
What I do like about the strip is that there is something for everyone. We wandered by a neat little retro joint called Taksura and of course Cosmic Café has to be one of the best spots for live music in Bangkok, though it wasn’t open on this particular evening. But the best part of the entire night had to be eating a warm and hearty bowl of noodle soup out front.
In the end, there is just something missing from Royal City Avenue. I’ve heard that ten years ago it was among the most happening places in Bangkok, but by now it feels worn out. Damn, I’d even take the drunken debauchery of Khao San before RCA – at least it’s got some character.
