COCONUTS HOTSPOT — Those Americans who faced hardship during The Great Depression before going on to defeat the Axis powers in World War II were once called that country’s “greatest generation” by a famous news personality. It was the soldiers, factory workers and leaders of that era, by his logic, which built the United States into the global power it became.
Gleaming at the center of nightlife tycoon Ashley Sutton’s newly opened Bangkok Betty is a chrome, bomb-shaped casing that shares the same dimensions as Little Boy, the atomic bomb carried by the Enola Gay B-29 Superfortress and detonated over Hiroshima, Japan in 1945. So maybe the restaurant won’t hold much appeal for Japanese guests, but Bangkok Betty tries to recreate that prosperous time with a retrograde theme inspired by how we remember history.
Sutton’s signature aesthetic touches are all present at Betty. The costumed women ala Maggie Choo’s are here, posing beneath a painting of the titular character, which hearkens ‘50s burlesque more Betty Page than Rosie Riveter. The interior is decorated with the same high-fantasy ambition of Iron Fairies, with industrial-themed fixtures and hanging decorations playing with the timeline of history. And as usual the operation focuses on cocktails created by Joseph Boroski, this time with a wartime twist, with names like Cyanide for Hitler, a mouth puckering cocktail utilizing absinthe, or The Final Approach, a scotch-based cocktail reminiscent of a classic whiskey sour. Of course it’s generally believed Hitler committed suicide by gunshot, but this is about style not real history.
Drinking food comes from the “small plates” section of the menu. There’s foie gras (THB580), scallops (THB490), and lamb kofta (THB370). Betty offers a raw bar featuring oysters (THB120-1200), salmon ceviche (THB370) and scallop carpaccio (THB420).
Diners looking to hang out for a full meal in the bomb factory from the meaty “big plate” specials: the same fish and chips which put Sutton’s Fat Gutz Saloon on the map (THB390), pork belly (THB450) and flank steak (THB720).
Now that the Soi Sukhumvit 11 crowds have gone AWOL, Soi Sukhumvit 22 has launched a counter-offensive of openings to win over their hearts and minds. While Bangkok Betty’s Thong Lor vibe might turn off the cheap Charlies, it adds another reason to check out this part of town.
Holiday Inn, ground floor
Soi Sukhumvit 22
