Editor’s note: permanently closed
Coconut’s Critic’s Table reviews are written based on unannounced visits by our writers and paid for by Coconuts.
COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE – Contrary to popular belief, Marie Antoinette never uttered the infamous saying, “Let them eat cake.”
The internet can tell you all about the misattributed quote, but I think the phrase applies aptly to one of Bangkok’s most celebrated sweet spots.
Let Them Eat Cake is a marvelous Bangok cake restaurant and a quality tea salon that has quickly made its way onto many critics’ top lists.
For a bakery it has a notably upscale vibe. Most of visitors are well-dressed and the décor has a classy, almost European feel. Located on the top floor of the newly renovated Siam Center Mall, Let Them Eat Cake is an extension of its overwhelmingly successful flagship patisserie located in Sukhumvit Soi 20, which opened a year earlier.
This Thai-national French patisserie boasts little confectionaries so photogenic that you’ve probably already seen them on social media and food lovers’ blogs. My orders looked as if they had just popped out of the pages of Pierre Herme’s recipe books.
Ooh La La! C’est Magnifique!
So where do I begin on the list of these gorgeous cakes? The consensus among the happy faces at my table voted that the“Mango Bellini” (THB175) the clear winner. The refreshingly tangy combination of ripe mango and sweet peach stood out from other deserts, most of which carried rounder, deeper, or smoother tastes.
Also, not to be missed is the iconic poster child of Let Them Eat Cake called St.Honoré (pronounced “san-toh-naw-RAY” in French)—a cake named after the French patron saint of bakers and pastry chefs. This elegant little thing (THB185) comes in two flavor pairs of rose and raspberry or peach and Ceylon tea. Both are unique for their texture, which combiens crispy caramelized sugar, puffy choux puff, fruit jelly, and smooth Chantilly cream. You haven’t been here until you try one.
My personal favorites are Thai Tea Tart (THB145) and La Rose (THB145) both because of how light they feel in my mouth and how smooth and effortlessly aromatic the tea leaf and rose petal flavors dissolved on my tastebuds.
Other personal recommendations include the Tarte Meringuée au Kaffir Lime (THB145) and Lemon Tart (THB145). Neither is very sour, but just enough to tingle your tongue. The Kaffir Lime, in particular, reminds me of some savory Thai dish which I can’t exactly pinpoint. The fragrance is so straight forward, but the taste will leave your buds quite intrigued.
To accompany your sweet courses, there is an adequate list of teas for you to choose from. Just like how you’d have to pair wine carefully with food, a drink should never interfere with a great dessert. The Italian soda (THB140) is always a safe choice—refreshing, fizzy and always useful as a palate cleanser. The tea list here is also topnotch. Imported from France, there is the famous Mariage Freres tea served at THB200 per pot.
Last but not least, I must recommend the Hot Chocolate (THB180). Unlike any drink of the same name elsewhere, this magic potion is liquid chocolate at its best. It is thick, intense, and simply delicious. My advice is to enjoy a cup by itself while people-watching as if you were in a Paris café.
Unfortunately, there is some bad news. Let Them Eat Cake is not cheap, as you might have already noticed. But it’s well worth it.
I don’t remember having desserts anywhere in Bangkok that look, feel, taste, and smell so incredible. Even if you think you’ve already tasted the best of French pastries while in Paris, I promise you, this will be different.
FIND IT:
4th Floor of Siam Center
898 Rama I Rd. Pathumwan Bangkok 10330
Tel: 02 658 1606
